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A little background first. When David Gilmour recorded that famous "seagulls in outer space" tone, the CryBaby had the classic two transistor design. Same as the Tear Jerker, but without the DIP switch and trimpots. The output is taken off of the collector of the 1st transistor. This point is inside the feedback loop that controls the filter freq and it has a high impedance. The high impedance makes it sensitive to loading and the location inside the feedback loop means it could, under the right conditions, lead to oscillation. Guitar pickups are highly resonant and the tone control affects the resonant frequency in a big way. By happy accident, Gilmour discovered what happens when you connect a guitar to the CryBaby's output jack. The entire circuit breaks into oscillation and that signal is present pretty much everywhere. The input jack is one place to pick up the signal, but you could just as well get it from the output jack or other places in the circuit. When I tried hooking my GCB-95 backwards, I got the seagull tone, which surprised me because that design has a 3rd transistor installed as an input buffer. It's the same circuit as the Station Wah. The Seagull tone passes backwards thru Q1. If you want to be able to control the volume of the Seagull tone, then a good place to pick-off the tone is at or near the collector of Q2. I recommend connecting an A500K pot with pin 3 at the board output, pin 2 goes to the Gilmour switch and pin 1 to ground.

Here are the details of how to do it with the Station Wah. Other CryBaby derivatives such as the Tear Jerker and ShamWah can be implemented in a similar fashion. Only 2 new parts: VR2 and S2.

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Dear all, hopefully someone will pick this up.

I am considering building this Fixed Wah with a I/O flippy switch (done this before on Vox Wah). I have noted that there is a volume control on this guide but where exactly does each lug on the A500k get soldered too? I have no idea how to read a schematic.

Thanks in advanced.
 
Dear all, hopefully someone will pick this up.

I am considering building this Fixed Wah with a I/O flippy switch (done this before on Vox Wah). I have noted that there is a volume control on this guide but where exactly does each lug on the A500k get soldered too? I have no idea how to read a schematic.

Thanks in advanced.


GILMOUR SEAGULL WAH MOD.png


3PDT is your bypass stomper.

DPDT can be a 3PDT if you want to add an LED indicator to that, too.

While you could pull the FEEDBACK pot's lug-3 feed from the output jack itself or the 3PDT's output, I wouldn't recommend it — the great thing about the way Monsieur Bones implemented the switching is that if you bump the pot by accident or for whatever reason(s) the seagulls go full Hitchcockian on you, hitting the bypass will kill the gulls' screams.
 
Right on, CDB!

In that case I might even dial it in on the breadboard and swap out the pot for a fixed resistor.

Maybe have TWO fixed resistors on a switch, for Big Monk's lower volume BG styley.
Okay, THREE fixed resistors, since there's gonna be a switch anyway's, may as well have a 3-position toggle...
 
Today I learned you can take the orphaned guts from a strat upgrade and a station wah board and make a standalone device.

I've been confusing the cats for the last hour.

I've played Echoes with pick up bands at Burning Man... helps when two other people know the tune as well. And we all knew the same incorrect transposition on some versions of sheet music for it.
 
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3PDT is your bypass stomper.

DPDT can be a 3PDT if you want to add an LED indicator to that, too.

While you could pull the FEEDBACK pot's lug-3 feed from the output jack itself or the 3PDT's output, I wouldn't recommend it — the great thing about the way Monsieur Bones implemented the switching is that if you bump the pot by accident or for whatever reason(s) the seagulls go full Hitchcockian on you, hitting the bypass will kill the gulls' screams.
Dude thanks so much for taking the time to draw this up, it’s super helpful. Will spend a bit of time comparing it to the schematic to rap my head around working it out myself next time.
 
Since the needs of a guitar are no longer a concern, I was able to remove the bar magnets from the pickups, and found a greater range of play-ability by changing the volume pot to 10K and the tone to 500K.. There are now smaller dead spots, and the volume pot gets a range of control instead of killing the oscillation ( although it lost the garbling that came from the nearly dead pot ).
 
I still get the warbling, I'm referring to some absolute chaos I would get from even touching the old volume knob.

Someone I know suggested LDR's as well. Worth a try.
 
LDR in an LED housing. 100k pot adjusts the sweet spot of the LDR. Opaque material behind it. Handy piece of scrap acrylic, I'll glue up a wood "cabinet" later.

Don't @ me about wiring. Pristine is for New In Box

When I made the holes I considered the pots to be 'in front' with a 'landacape' orientation.
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