MXR Rockman X100

Yes there are two trim pots in series! 20k + 2k. I guess one is for coarse adjustment and the other for fine. I haven't quite finished the compressor section. There's some switching going on, depending on the selected "patch". In general, it seems closer to the compressor in the Ace series, with an op-amp driving the jfet gate (J201).
 
I suspect you're right about the DIY community and the level of complication. Since releasing the schematics and original PCB board clones (single-sided), we've had only one DIYer ask for more information. Even then, there was no follow-thru.
Got a link to that? Definitely interesting to me, but I didn’t even know you posted that somewhere
 
Right here. If you're interested in the Gerbers for the single-sided original PCB clone boards (and the associated PCBs & stuff to make it run as a 9VDC [neg. center], true-bypass pedal in a Polycase AN-07P 8.7"x 5.7"x2.1" enclosure) please message me.
Awesome! I’ll have to read through this tonight
 
Right here. If you're interested in the Gerbers for the single-sided original PCB clone boards (and the associated PCBs & stuff to make it run as a 9VDC [neg. center], true-bypass pedal in a Polycase AN-07P 8.7"x 5.7"x2.1" enclosure) please message me.
that's a spendy NEMA 6p enclosure ... until you go drilling a bunch of holes in it, that enclosure will do prolonged submersion without intrusion
 
that's a spendy NEMA 6p enclosure ... until you go drilling a bunch of holes in it, that enclosure will do prolonged submersion without intrusion
Yeah, it's what were able to find that would fit the hardware and the single-sided & ancillary PCBs. Drilled and painted in a quantity of 10 they run about $55 each plus shipping. At a quantity of 1, they're about $212 each when they do the drilling & painting.
 
Identifying small SMD actives can be a royal pain. The markings are often not the actual part number and manufacturer logo but an obscure code that's not unique to a part. You pretty much have to guess from the circuit what the part's function is, then figure out exactly what the package style and size is called (and there are often several different names for the same package). Then you start digging through datasheets to hopefully find something that matches the pinout and markings of your part. You can get lucky, or it can take hours for just one part.

U2 in this pic took me hours. It says 1F, and the "U" designation points to it being an integrated circuit, so that's what I was looking for. It turns out it's almost certainly a dual NPN transistor in a tiny 6-pin case. Part of what looks like an overvoltage protection scheme for the 9VDC input. Then why not call it Q something if it's a transistor (even dual), like the other Q's on board? The big 8-pin Q2 in front of U2 is clearly a transistor, for example (MOSFET), even though it really looks like an IC.
 

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Thanks, but like you said, large databases don't necessarily make it easy when you end up with 50+ entries starting with 1F, for instance. It also really didn't help that I was looking for an IC whereas the part was a dual transistor. It should have clued me in that none of the pins went straight to a power rail, but the U2 designator threw me off.. I gaslit myself that I must have missed a power trace or via somewhere.

Speaking of... I have one last part that I haven't yet identified. Looks like a SOT363 package, again marked as an IC (U12). Any ideas? If you figure it out, I'll send you the full BOM to celebrate 😁
 

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^for posterity: it's an MMDT3904 made by Panjit. Dual NPN transistor. It took me an entire day to identify. It's not in any SMD markings database that Google could find. The same part made by anybody else has a totally different marking!
 
Are there any folks who'd be willing and able to independently verify this monster trace within a reasonable amount of time (weeks)? I did the bulk of the legwork, but you'll still need to take a unit apart and buzz traces with a meter, and also verify all 260+ parts against the BOM. There's no realistic way of tracing it using pictures alone (4-layer board with a good number of inner layer traces and components on both sides). Caution: this will take a lot of time and dedication. It's hardcore.

*pic intentionally blurry (it's not quite ready):
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I'm good to go ahead and do that for you ... [checks schedule]

... I can fit that in as early as July 26th ...
















... 2029.



Maybe sooner. PM me.
 
Update: I couldn't find anyone to verify my trace. I double-and even triple-checked it, but of course I might have still missed something. Anyway, I'm done with it and moving on, just like some of us who once they finish a pedal put it on a shelf and never touch it again. It's the journey, not the destination. I put a link to it in the members-only section of DIYstompboxes so it doesn't get scraped by evil bots or random sketchy guests:

 
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Update: I couldn't find anyone to verify my trace. I double-and even triple-checked it, but of course I might have still missed something. Anyway, I'm done with it and moving on, just like some of us who once they finish a pedal put it on a shelf and never touch it again. It's the journey, not the destination. I put a link to it in the members-only section of DIYstompboxes so it doesn't get scraped by evil bots or random sketchy guests:

I'd've volunteered, but I don't have an MXR X100 to verify it with.

I did notice that the JFET biasing scheme is quite similar to the JFET biasing used on the Dunlop versions of the Rockman Acoustic Guitar Pedal and the Rockman Ultimatum Distortion Generator pedals. And IMO it's a slick approach to tweaking the JFET bias over swapping out resistors.
 
I did volunteer, but then the unit I thought I had free access to...well... turns out that "free" access never really existed.

Great work, JTEX, sorry you had to bear the weight of it all alone.
 
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