Overdrive before a Nobelium in my signal chain

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XjFred

New member
Hello guys !
I already have my diy Nobelium at the end of my signal chain, that I love, and I'm looking for a pedal that can add some smooth tube grit, lite crunch (and why not full overdrive, but not too much), to put before my nobelium. To play for example some slow blues. I need to mention I'm not a hairy metal player, but more a soulful jazz, blues and neo-soul bass player so no fuzz, no big distorsion to summon any devil, just a tasty "vintage" tube overdrive.
I want that pedal with a switch that allow me to add this crunch without changing to much the volume. And I'm looking for a diy kit.
So where should I go ? Particule accelerator ? Bassdude ?
Thank you !
 
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If you're specifically looking for tube grit (which I assume is why you posted here), here's how I would compare the C2C offerings:
  • Particle Accelerator - excellent for grit and light-ish overdrive when cranked, nice low frequency response makes it great for bass
  • Bassdude - everything Particle Accelerator can do but with more gain on top and a unique EQ that I'm a big fan of
  • King Nothing - great for light-mid overdrive on guitar, but would need modification to work for bass
  • Ambassador - also does really well on guitar for a wide range of tones, but would need modification to work for bass
  • Lab Rat - excellent on both guitar or bass, but is more of a heavy drive/distortion. That being said if you use a lower value gain pot (I like A50k) it can actually do lower gain quite well
  • Wrecking Ball - absolutely terrible choice for light overdrive
 
I can second that the Particle Accelerator, Bassdude, and Lab Rat can all provide some nice light dirt before the Nobelium but I don't have any of them on my board because I have many other excellent choices with a fraction of the power requirements. Maybe it's silly to build all these tube pedals and then refuse to upgrade the power supply but I feel like I've thrown enough cash at the underside of my board. All three of those pedals sound amazing though. I've historically been a non-rat guy but the Lab Rat is the best rat for bass that I've ever tried. Changed my mind on the circuit entirely. It might be the most versatile of those choices while being the least "amp like."

If you're thinking about non-tube pedals that pair well with the nobelium, I use a Moonn Big Bass Bro (actually 2 in 1 box) for "barely there" grit and a PPCB Kliche (Chuck D Bones Klon bass mods) for light/medium dirt.

Edit: just remembered you said you wanted a kit, neither of those non tube suggestions will come in a kit. Womp womp.
 
vigilante398 said:
If you're specifically looking for tube grit (which I assume is why you posted here), here's how I would compare the C2C offerings:
  • Particle Accelerator - excellent for grit and light-ish overdrive when cranked, nice low frequency response makes it great for bass
  • Bassdude - everything Particle Accelerator can do but with more gain on top and a unique EQ that I'm a big fan of
  • King Nothing - great for light-mid overdrive on guitar, but would need modification to work for bass
  • Ambassador - also does really well on guitar for a wide range of tones, but would need modification to work for bass
  • Lab Rat - excellent on both guitar or bass, but is more of a heavy drive/distortion. That being said if you use a lower value gain pot (I like A50k) it can actually do lower gain quite well
  • Wrecking Ball - absolutely terrible choice for light overdrive
Click to expand...
Thank you Nathan, I couldn't wish for a more precise and complete answer.
After earing some sounds demo of the PA and the Bassdude, I think I will opt for the latter. Obviously, it can deliver more gain than initialy expected, but as we say in France : "what can do more, can do less". And maybe one day I will be happy to have a full overdrive by cranking that gain knob.
I'm a fan of Ampeg sound, but this Dude (which is based on a Fender tweed tone stack, as far as I understand) sounds awesome.
The Particle Accelerator should have been enough for my actual need, with more space saved in the pedalboard, but now that I have sold the HX Stomp XL, I have plenty of room left for the Bassdude. Can't wait to figure out which tone stack is better between the Nobelium or the Bassdude (as they will belong together side by side in the pedalboard).
Another question for Nathan : do you plan to offer the Redacted preamps serie as diy kits one day ? The 3 tubes Redacted ii is highly desirable.
 
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Mentaltossflycoon said:
I can second that the Particle Accelerator, Bassdude, and Lab Rat can all provide some nice light dirt before the Nobelium but I don't have any of them on my board because I have many other excellent choices with a fraction of the power requirements. Maybe it's silly to build all these tube pedals and then refuse to upgrade the power supply but I feel like I've thrown enough cash at the underside of my board. All three of those pedals sound amazing though. I've historically been a non-rat guy but the Lab Rat is the best rat for bass that I've ever tried. Changed my mind on the circuit entirely. It might be the most versatile of those choices while being the least "amp like."

If you're thinking about non-tube pedals that pair well with the nobelium, I use a Moonn Big Bass Bro (actually 2 in 1 box) for "barely there" grit and a PPCB Kliche (Chuck D Bones Klon bass mods) for light/medium dirt.

Edit: just remembered you said you wanted a kit, neither of those non tube suggestions will come in a kit. Womp womp.
Click to expand...
Thank you for these suggestions. Even if it won't apply to my needs, it will surely help someone else.
 
I have a question regarding the Bassdude diy kit (the doc provided in the Musikding and C2C website doesn't feature the LED power source and the switch schematic) :
- how does the footswitch actually work ? is it just a shortcut between input and output, and does it shutdown the LED of the tube (V1 and/or V2) to have a feedback of the state of the pedal ?
 
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I think this is the schematic I traced from the Bassdude PCB before I built my first one, I always trace PCB's into KiCad before I build them as it makes me understand the circuit better. It might be a habit I started when I was young and worked as a maintenance electrician, half the machines we had to repair there were never a good schematic so if I had the time I would start tracing everything out for later reference.
Hopefully you can follow it ok.

C2CE Bassdude Schematic As Traced From PCB.png
 
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Thank you !
As far as I understand, the switch in position 1 links input and output. And the two LED are off.
In position 2, signal goes in and out the tubes and the 2 LED shine bright.
So if I want one LED always on to indicate power on and the other LED on only when the effect is on, I just have to lift R1 and connect it to ground instead of FS4.
Am I correct ?
 
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That sounds correct to me but it might be easier to do it to R8 instead, the nearest ground terminals to R8 is right beside R8 on R14 and R16 so you just stand R8 upright.
The nearest ground terminals to R1 is on R17 and C9, on this one just lay R1 over the top of R17 to reach the ground I guess.
Here is an approximate layout I did for myself in Kicad of the tracks that are in the Bassdude, they might not be correct since I obviously can not see any internal tracks or layers.
I highlighted the ground terminals so it is easier to find them.
You want to lift the legs of R1 or R8 that is closest to the middle stomp-switch since they go to to the stomp-switch.
Cheers
Mick

C2CE Bassdude PCB Tracks As Traced.png

EDIT: The reason some pins are not connected is because they are connected to a "ground plane", a "ground plane" is where the whole PCB has a layer of copper over it and the layer connects to whatever that layer terminal has the same polarity on that layer.
For every layer a PCB has you can do a "ground plane" and it can be connected to anything you like, so the whole back can be a layer that is connected to +9V and the front might have a layer connected to 0V.
I think C2CE and Sushi pedals often has an internal layer connected to 0C (ground), high voltage and also maybe the input voltage has a layer as well sometime depending on the layer and pedal.
This can be a great way to provide a shield so the circuit picks up less interference in the pedal.
 
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I don't know where you are but if you can order parts from Tayda electronics I highly recommend getting the components from there and also the box from them, all of the C2CE projects have drill files and paint files available that Nathan has made up so we can have really professional looking pedals and Tayda can drill and paint the boxes for you. You can always make your own paint files as well and make your own designs and they will do that as well, if you supply the files they will stick it on any stomp box they carry.
Nathan is Vigilante398 and is also the owner of C2CE and Sushi Box FX pedals, also a fantastic man who makes this all possible while working a normal job AND while being the man of the house with 3 females wanting his full attention all the time.
Here is a picture of some of the boxes I have ordered from Tayda for myself:

Electronic Parts Online Store - Tayda Electronics

www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com
Cheers
Mick

IMG_0093.JPG
 
Thank you so much Mick for all your help and tips !

I'm in France. I order my kit at Musikding in Germany, it comes with all the parts, tubes and enclosure included.
The enclosure comes drilled if I ask to, but I rather do it myself. It is bare aluminium, no paint, but I don't mind, as I enjoy brushing the aluminium, I found this type of finish very refined.
And there is, in the city of Bordeaux (you may have heard about their wine), a factory that can make custom faceplates, engraved and/or print over aluminium, stainless steel, brass, ... I use the drill templates made for Tayda to make my own drilling and faceplate.
I already built a Nobelium with the faceplate made by Nathan added in the kit and I really like it, I found it pretty neat, like an industrial touch. That combo (brushed aluminium + faceplate) is also the solution used by the british builder "Origin Effects" (Cali76, etc..).
I must admit your collection of boxes is gorgeous, and will make me think twice for my next build.
 
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