Ceriatone Hey What 504 (DIY Hiwatt DR504 clone)

MattG

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
It's been nearly four years since I built an amp... and that was also a Hiwatt DR504 clone (Mojotone Custom 50 kit). I absolutely love the one I built years ago. The only "problem" is the size and bulk. I don't take it out as much as I'd like, because the head itself is fairly large and heavy, and that vertical 2x12 is actually not much smaller than a 4x12. So what I wanted was all the goodness of a DR504, but in a 1x12 combo form. And I plan to get a 1x12 extension cab, so I can stack this new combo on the extension cab, and still have a vertical 2x12 setup when space permits.

I actually already had a 1x12 Hiwatt-style amp: my first amp build was the Trinity Triwatt, which is not a faithful clone of a Hiwatt circuit, but a close cousin: it was originally designed for a switchable 6v6 or kt66 output section. (They used to offer it in DIY kit form.) I had one of the newer kits which also included an option for EL34 output tubes. I originally built it with the 6v6/kt66 output. I felt it didn't have enough clean headroom. So I re-wired the output transformer, and made a couple minor circuit tweaks so I could use it with EL34 tubes. That didn't seem to make a huge difference in clean headroom. It's a great amp otherwise, but the true DR504 has the magic I want.

This time around I went with Ceriatone for the actual amp kit, the Hey What 504. I went with Ceriatone because they include by default a bias adjustment circuit. The Mojotone kit I had did not include any way to adjust the power tube bias, short of actually re-soldering different resistors. When I asked them about this, they claimed it was because they wanted their Custom 50 kit to be as true to the vintage Hiwatts as possible. I don't agree with that, but looking at their kit now, they do include a bias adjustment pot. But it's still a pot that's soldered in to the power supply circuit itself. Meaning, you'd have to take the amp chassis out of the enclosure to change tubes and bias. It wouldn't be hard to mount that to the chassis, but doing it neatly, along with external bias probe points would require drilling a steel chassis. No thanks! The Ceriatone comes by default with an externally-mounted bias pot and bias probe points (just like my Trinity Triwatt). So tube swaps and re-bias is easy-peasy.

I did buy the transformers from Mojotone. They are made by Heyboer and are supposed to be faithful reproductions of the original Partridge transformers used in vintage Hiwatt amps. These massive, over-spec transformers are generally considered to be part of the Hiwatt magic.

I've built a lot of pedals since I built the previous DR504, and I forgot how time-consuming an amp build is. A pedal build is instant gratification by comparison! I estimate I spent somewhere around 20-30 hours to build this. But the build was otherwise unremarkable. I tried to keep the lead dress neat. It think it's OK... not great, but not terrible. Look at pics of the lead dress as done by Ceriatone, Hi-Tone or Reeves - those are absolutely first-class, and truly honor the Hiwatt legacy.

Initially it didn't work - no sound at all. Ultimately, I determined it was one of two things (maybe both): one of the preamp tubes not making good connection/not inserted fully, and/or a couple sketchy solder connections. I got some debugging help from the Amp Garage. My main takeaways from the debugging experience: even if the amp is working, it's worth your time to poke and prod all the wires, components and solder joints with a chopstick while it's running, to try an ferret out any marginal solder joints. Also, rotating the amp 180 degrees for visual inspection can be very revealing.

Once I got the sketchy solder joints fixed up, I spent more time strumming and perturbing the circuit with a chopstick - I couldn't get it to cut out any more, so I feel pretty confident about it. Enough so that today I loaded into the custom 1x12 cabinet that Sour Mash Guitar Cabs made for me. This is the second cab I've had Sour Mash make for me. They do great work and their prices border on too-good-to-be-true. While I in theory could make my own cabinet, my carpentry skills are pretty mediocre. I enjoy DIY electronics, but my woodworking projects always leave me frustrated. I had the cab covered in brown "country western" tolex, as used by Homestead Amps. That look might offend the Hiwatt purists, but I think it looks great!

I got it all boxed up today and spent about an hour just playing - actually playing for enjoyment, rather than debugging. It sounds just like it should - the same as my other DR504 clone. But now I've got it in the 1x12 combo cab, and it can be my main amp, both for gigging and practice. Once I've truly put it through all its paces, I plan to sell both the Triwatt and the Mojotone.
 

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Great build report, great pics, great amp.


Choice of grille-cloth is on point with tolex — very cohesive.
What knobs will you be getting?
 
Sweet. There’s a dedicated Amp forum here now where you might want to at least post a link to this thread. ;)

I have been very impressed by both the 50 and 100 watt Heyboer/Mojo Partridge OT clones and I’m rocking the latter in my recent bass amp build quite happily.
 
Thanks for all the kind words everyone!

What knobs will you be getting?

The kit came with traditional "chicken head" knobs, and I intend to use those.

That also reminds me: in case it's not obvious, the face plate writing is upside down. This amp is designed to go in a head cabinet, so I flipped it upside-down to mount it in the combo cabinet. Ceriatone doesn't do custom faceplates, so I just used the stock one. My interim fix will be to simply use a label maker to put some correctly-oriented knob/switch/input labels on the front face. Eventually I'll have a custom one made. So, in the meantime , it will have a little trashy flourish until I get a proper faceplate made!
 
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Great work! A very difficult build indeed...

I built six DR504's back around 2008. Sold three to pay for the three I kept! There used to be a guy that sold chassis spec'd to an original, and I used Mercury Magnetic transformers which came to about $3000 way back then!

My DR504.jpeg

One of the ones I kept.
DR504 Initials.jpeg

This is number 7 which I never finished. I'll get around to is someday (knocks on wood)
DR504 in a box.JPEG
 
Great work! A very difficult build indeed...

Thanks! I wouldn't say it was difficult so much as tedious and time-consuming. And stressful when it didn't work at first (although the chopstick debugging was well worth it). Although, to be fair, going for the true Hiwatt wiring style takes a lot of time. I feel like the upside (besides looking nice) is that it kind of forced me to work more slowly and deliberately. As in, if I'm going to take the time to make every wire the perfect length, and carefully bent, I might as well give every single solder joint - and all the other small details - the same care and attention.

I built six DR504's back around 2008. Sold three to pay for the three I kept! There used to be a guy that sold chassis spec'd to an original, and I used Mercury Magnetic transformers which came to about $3000 way back then!

Emphasis mine - that get's a :oops:! But for real, that's awesome! I know Mercury Magnetic transformers have a great reputation, and also a reputation for charging accordingly. :)

I really love this amp, my only complaint is the weight - those transformers are quite literally blocks of iron, and I feel every pound when I move it around. Hi-Tone makes the "Lowatt" which is supposed to be true to all the classic Hiwatt goodness, in a lighter 2x 6v6 package - about 18 watts. Several times I came close to buying one of those, but was afraid it might run out of clean headroom in a live band situation.
 
Thanks! I wouldn't say it was difficult so much as tedious and time-consuming. And stressful when it didn't work at first (although the chopstick debugging was well worth it). Although, to be fair, going for the true Hiwatt wiring style takes a lot of time. I feel like the upside (besides looking nice) is that it kind of forced me to work more slowly and deliberately. As in, if I'm going to take the time to make every wire the perfect length, and carefully bent, I might as well give every single solder joint - and all the other small details - the same care and attention.



Emphasis mine - that get's a :oops:! But for real, that's awesome! I know Mercury Magnetic transformers have a great reputation, and also a reputation for charging accordingly. :)

I really love this amp, my only complaint is the weight - those transformers are quite literally blocks of iron, and I feel every pound when I move it around. Hi-Tone makes the "Lowatt" which is supposed to be true to all the classic Hiwatt goodness, in a lighter 2x 6v6 package - about 18 watts. Several times I came close to buying one of those, but was afraid it might run out of clean headroom in a live band situation.
I made my layout too, so kinda pre-building it before I built it. And I numbered the turrets so it was easy to be sure I was placing components correctly. Made it a LOT easier!

At the time I didn't have much of a choice on the transformers. I live 15 minutes away from Mercury, and it's just down the street from a Costco. So I did a 'will call' for the transformers after shopping. It was cheaper going with MM than anyone else just due to saving freight!

Here's my old layout:
DR504 Board Layouts.jpg

Here's my newer one I did after I got a little bit more fancier with the components. This is 100% 'to scale'. I wanted to make a dual bias version with test points while I was at it. It is untested tho.

I also redid rectification just to double up on the diodes and make it cleaner. I never liked the older way...

DR504 2025 v1.jpg
 
I numbered the turrets so it was easy to be sure I was placing components correctly. Made it a LOT easier!

LOL, that's one of those things that's stupid-simple but immensely useful... now why didn't I think to do that? I bet I spent at least an hour (in aggregate) counting turrets on the layout diagram and the hardware itself. I counted, double- and triple-checked, and still there was a couple turrets where I was off-by-one. I caught my errors, but re-work is wasted time. Two minutes with a Sharpie has near-infinite ROI!
 
LOL, that's one of those things that's stupid-simple but immensely useful... now why didn't I think to do that? I bet I spent at least an hour (in aggregate) counting turrets on the layout diagram and the hardware itself. I counted, double- and triple-checked, and still there was a couple turrets where I was off-by-one. I caught my errors, but re-work is wasted time. Two minutes with a Sharpie has near-infinite ROI!
Well I didn't think of it till the second one, so it's what you learn going slow that makes it easier to go fast!!!

I just printed out the part of the layout with numbers and taped it to the board so it would be nice and neat
:cool:
 
I've had excellent results with both MM and Heyboer transformers. I like MM for their range of variants - I've used their slightly lower B+ PT in a few 5E3 Deluxes and the difference is astonishing. They bias up a lot easier and the breakup is glorious. I also used a lower B+ PT in a friend's original 5F6-A Bassman and he loves how it breaks up at a lower volume. It actually sounds way more impressive than I thought it would.

And Heyboers can sound fantastic. I think it depends on who specs them. I once built a Marshall 1987 head ('68 50w Plexi) with Marstran specced Heyboers and that amp captured the sound of a genuine '68 Plexi better than any other clone I have built. I have since built other Marshall spec amps with MM transformers that I am just as happy with but that Marstran version was so authentic sounding.

And @MattG I have a 1x12 Marshall 50W combo similar to your Hiwatt. Sounds amazing! Still heavy but giggable.

Great work, everyone!
 
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