Hope you don’t mind non-pedalpcb projects! Pedalpcb boards are my favorite since the documentation is great, easy to work with, great selection, and very few if any errors on the boards and docs. But living in the U.K., shipping and customs fees are high so I only sporadically order boards.
I really dig making preamp pedals and I recently discovered pcbguitarmania in Europe (probably old news to some of you guys). They’ve got a bunch of preamp pedal PCB’s so I’ve ordered a few and this is the first one I’ve built. I was a bit nervous about it working since all their projects tend to have a lot of spelling errors or other errors in the build docs (such as the BOM and ‘shopping list’ not lining up)but it works first time. Also my first time using these SMD j201’s on an adapter board. I think I’ll use these for all other j201 needs as they sure are a lot cheaper than though hole j201’s.
please don’t pay too close attention to the soldering on the footswitch breakout board, I’ve never actually used one before but after seeing a poll thread here where most of you guys love them, I decided to try one out. I was kinda iffy if I wanted to keep it so I went with the deathbyaudio school of footswitch soldering and I didn’t use much solder there (so I could salvage the switch if I decided I didn’t like it). I guess those solder joints are not load bearing so it’s probably perfectly solid as-is.
this is one of those jfet workalikes for the Orange Graphic MkII preamp. I’m actually very pleasantly surprised by the sound. With the FAC and bass turned up it gets very doomy and thick sounding, yet also cleans up very well with just the guitar volume knob. Cleans are also very nice with the gain turned down. I think it probably has a lot more gain than the real deal since I don’t really feel the need to go past 5 or 6 for full on doom distortion, and I’m pretty sure the real amps are by no means gain monsters.
one odd thing about the project, it specifies a 1p12t rotary switch for the FAC control but the original amp only had 6 positions. Only 6 positions work on this also (7 though 12 are silent), and that is even reflected on the schematic/build docs. Weird, maybe a 2p6t rotary was meant to be spec’d? Maybe 12t rotaries are just easier to source?
I really dig making preamp pedals and I recently discovered pcbguitarmania in Europe (probably old news to some of you guys). They’ve got a bunch of preamp pedal PCB’s so I’ve ordered a few and this is the first one I’ve built. I was a bit nervous about it working since all their projects tend to have a lot of spelling errors or other errors in the build docs (such as the BOM and ‘shopping list’ not lining up)but it works first time. Also my first time using these SMD j201’s on an adapter board. I think I’ll use these for all other j201 needs as they sure are a lot cheaper than though hole j201’s.
please don’t pay too close attention to the soldering on the footswitch breakout board, I’ve never actually used one before but after seeing a poll thread here where most of you guys love them, I decided to try one out. I was kinda iffy if I wanted to keep it so I went with the deathbyaudio school of footswitch soldering and I didn’t use much solder there (so I could salvage the switch if I decided I didn’t like it). I guess those solder joints are not load bearing so it’s probably perfectly solid as-is.
this is one of those jfet workalikes for the Orange Graphic MkII preamp. I’m actually very pleasantly surprised by the sound. With the FAC and bass turned up it gets very doomy and thick sounding, yet also cleans up very well with just the guitar volume knob. Cleans are also very nice with the gain turned down. I think it probably has a lot more gain than the real deal since I don’t really feel the need to go past 5 or 6 for full on doom distortion, and I’m pretty sure the real amps are by no means gain monsters.
one odd thing about the project, it specifies a 1p12t rotary switch for the FAC control but the original amp only had 6 positions. Only 6 positions work on this also (7 though 12 are silent), and that is even reflected on the schematic/build docs. Weird, maybe a 2p6t rotary was meant to be spec’d? Maybe 12t rotaries are just easier to source?
