Recent content by bean

I'm not totally sure about that extra diode, but my guess is it's being used for ground isolation on pin3 of the MN3102 in the later design. So, a little extra insurance to prevent any ground loops or possible clock noise. IOW, the diode prevents any stray current present in DC ground getting to...

1/8W is perfectly fine. 1/4W will probably have a slightly lower noise threshold, but that is true for any bit of audio electronics. However, the DM2 itself already has a lot of noise suppression built into the design via the compander.

I do, usually. Either a pour or as traces. I've done it both ways.

IMO, it makes sense to use trimmers if you are trying to achieve a specific bias voltage because that value may not be a common one for a fixed resistor. This kind of ignores that bias in germanium devices will drift with temperature, though. If you really want to be a super fancy pants kind of...

The peak detection circuit and decay have already been discussed. But would a variable resistor in place of R9 allow for some useful "attack" control?

The single ended version looks very promising. Great work, Chuck!

Big Nasty Clang is a perfect summary of the Brassmaster. Some go-getter should do a version with added expression pedal control. Not me, though.

I do regret selling my OG Tim I bought from Paul. The DIY versions I've built have all be great but I have a sentimental attachment to the original. I used it on a couple records we made way back when. Shoulda kept it.

That's great work. Clean inside and out!

It's a surprisingly good sounding flanger, IMO. I'm happy it worked out for you.

I do. It should correspond to the first version of the Tim (minus the fx loop), although I did include my own clipping mod on the project. Feel free to use the schematic to build your own vero/PCB if you like.

Excellent, thanks DL. I need to dig back into SpinCAD and this is the perfect reason to get motivated. I will happily throw in a donation.

Glad you are digging it even though I low-key hate looking at my PCB layout work from so long ago. The electrolytic caps should all face down :)

Same same. But, I still find ISO with a toothbrush then a water wash finisher gives the best results. It makes the solder joints look dull but they are very clean.

I think I designed one to fit in my Standard Series of 1590B projects. I'll check. There's a bunch of those I still haven't released. Update: yeah I have one. It's the revised design from Bajaman that includes a tone control but all the same circuitry is still there.