Recent content by Bio77

Will do. I was planning a dual upgrade, as well. :cool:

Got it, thank you for the detailed explaination. Do you think the LDR tracks with the LFO linearly or there is some shaping that would need to be considered to get the same sweep character?

It is a screen shot from a lecture I found, not sure about the 1s and 2s. That's a bummer. In that case, would two 3009s be a better choice? With all the flangers you have designed, have you found the clock to have a minimal impact on the sound? I wouldn't have guessed that. For example, the...

The schematic is off at the 4007. I think it should look like this:

That's awesome, thank you! I'm working on the clock now. I'll run it at -9, 9 and 5 and see what happens.

No. I thought the 512 stages would be easier to fit the clock to, I hadn't considered the voltage change.

I'm planning to swap out the TDA1022. Just ordered some SSI2100 delay chips. Running across them was the inspiration for getting back into this.

Hey Scruffie! Post from you, just made my day. I'll bug you in a few days :cool: Cheers!

Thanks for taking a look! I'd be worried about heterodyning with a charge pump. LectricFX used charge pumps in a lot of their early versions of flangers and have since updated them to 18V. There were tons of troubleshooting threads back in the day on Mad Bean :)

Cool, thank you! This looks like what I assumed and switching is strait forward. I was worried there was something else I wasn't aware of. I wonder why they chose this configuration? The two transistors are PNP, maybe this is easier or just regular practice in the 70s. Anyway, I’m planning...

I'm taking a look at the Carlsbro Flanger (schematic below). This circuit is positive ground. Is there any reason for this? Could I recreate this circuit switching -9V for ground and ground for +9V?

Built this awile ago, so, I might be remembering wrong. I'd guess it is the current limiting resister for the LED. Since I built the mini board to have adjustable LED brighness, it isn't needed

I probably have the art file around but it's not really important as a drill template because everything but the rotary switch is off board. If you want the art file send a PM.

The normally open switch is soldered to lug 2 and 3 of the dwell pot. When it is pressed it shorts the pins so there is no resistance. The 2 and 3 lugs are also soldered to the pcb, where they would normally go. For one of the wires going to the NO footswitch add a 220R - 560R resistor. On...

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/FilterMod/pdf/PorkBarrel24.pdf Since the clock is firing up and then leaving, maybe you have a loose connection. Might be worth reflowing some suspect solderpoints. The voltages can help you identify the area on the circuit you want to address...