Recent content by BrainDrain

The only problem is that I asked a question to someone that didn't want to be asked one. (And it is not in my capacity to know who doesn't want to be bothered). I understand all that about the part numbers and the ehx PCB, and I realized my mistake with the 1uf cap. I understand now the parts...

Yes I can see that. What was confusing me I guess is that it said it's based on the tagboardeffects version. Which has two 1uf electros and the filter cap. The rest look like film and ceramic. I only saw one 1uf listed there so that's what I was asking about but now I realize my mistake with that.

I did read your post. That's why I'm asking. I'm not an electronics genius. I know enough to do mods and basic stuff. I'm here to learn like everyone else. In the future I'll make sure not to comment on anything you post seeing as you obviously don't want to be bothered. Thanks for "keeping the...

For C1 to C7 did you use electrolytics or switch them over to film caps? Also I noticed the layout by cdwillis has two 1uf electrolytics. One connected to each pair of diodes. Is there only 1 in your layout?

Thanks for the info. Didn't realize that it would affect the sweep. So if I were using the 25k pot a 3k3 resistor would be fine but with the 100k pot the resistor needs to be a bit higher? Also does it matter which side the resistor goes on? I've seen people put it on the ground side and also on...

Looks interesting but not really sure how to use it. :LOL: I was told the 3k3 resistor is just to set the minimum value so the pot never goes to 0k. So if I added a B100k pot in place of the 100k resistor wouldn't it be kinda the same as replacing the 22k resistor with a 25k pot like the...

So I'm building the tagboardeffects/layouts version of the Russian BMP. It already has a mid boost switch to add capacitors but I want to add a mid pot too for extra tweaking. Most Russian BMPs look like this to start: Except the layout I'm using has a 100k resistor instead of the 22k to...

I'd swap out the IC and recheck all your solder joints. If all the soldering, wiring and IC is ok and you're getting bypass signal and LED then I'd suspect it's one of the two switches that's defective or it's the PCB. I've never had a bad capacitor before but I guess it's possible?

I just had a build where I did everything right and it turned out being a defective trace in the PCB. I added a jumper and it was all good. It's not that common although it's happened to me twice in about a year and a half. I'd check some voltages with a multimeter. The LED is lighting so...

Did you try it with a LED connected to the pads? I can't see how voltage comes through that daughter board on the shematic but just a thought.

No worries. It happens to all of us along the way. I've done my share of desoldering 😂.

Did you use pot covers on the bottom pots under the PCB? Your wiring looks ok and the LED working means there's voltage coming into the PCB.

Unfortunately All of the transistors need to be flipped the other direction. The flat side of the transistor should match the flat side on the footprint on the PCB. I'd probably just clip them all off and start over if it were mine but maybe someone else has a better fix? I'd just clip the...

I did the same thing at first too when I checked 😂

The ICs in his pedal are correct and the build doc looks ok too.