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If all the components check out ok you might have a broken trace that can’t be seen. Not common but it did happen to me twice. The audio probe or checking for continuity with a multimeter will sort that out.

If you haven’t yet, I’d check the resistors in your stash that were used for this and make sure they’re actually the value the bag says.

The resistor on the top left is 12k, Brown, red, black, red, brown. Top right is 1k8 (didn’t have 2k) brown, grey, black, brown, brown. Bottom is a 1k. Brown, black, black, brown, brown. The two brown bands almost look grey but it’s probably just the light.

I checked all your resistors and they look correct. R29 is the only one I can’t see. I don’t see anything else that stands out. One thing I’d suggest doing is making sure the resistors with brown bands on both ends are the correct values marked on the bag you got them in. It’s possible someone...

Ground is always ground. But in this case it’s positive instead of negative because things are swapped and you’re feeding in -9 volts. Nothing different is happening with the charge pump versus swapping those two wires I suggested. The charge pump is just used so it can be daisy chained with...

The colors of the wires are just reversed now. It’s the same as if you reversed those two I suggested above. In the new picture the black wires marked “ground” are positive. The red wire feeding from the charge pump into the pcb is negative. (-9v) All this positive ground stuff can be confusing...

If you get a chance, can you post a pic of the entire thing. Jacks, switch and all. And the underside too if possible.

Yeah I’ve used the search function. I built one a while back that had issues and it ended up being a defective pcb. Broken traces that couldn’t be seen. All fixed and sounds great now. I meant it would be good for other people who will eventually build them seeing as there are so many questions...

The low tide doc might be a good candidate for the schematic considering how many questions get posted about them (including my own 😂)

Tube screamer > Tube screamer with an added loop to added as many more Tube Screamers as you’d like.

Yeah seeing as it was just taken apart it does sound like it could be a lug touching something or possibly from being too tight. If it’s not that, it’s the pot itself. Curious to know what it is now. lol.

The pot is most likely dead. That’s exactly what happens when the track is worn inside. You might be able to get away with spraying Deoxit but it would be better to just get a new pot. The resistance will go up as the track wears down.

Post another thread with some pictures of the inside and let us know what the pedal is doing and isn’t doing.

Glad to see you got it working!

🤣

Gettin’ a footprint gas pedal installed….

The list I’m providing has direct links to all the components. What you provided is still necessary though for choosing the resistor and pot values.

No worries. We all gotta start somewhere. 🙂 There’s a DC voltage function on the meter. You just touch the black probe to the ground lug of the input or output jack and the red probe to the each side of the diode. Both sides should read right around 9v. If it’s not the diode I’d just go over...

Before you unsolder everything, did you check the voltage after the protection diode with the pedal plugged in by itself?

What you’re doing won’t work. All the breakout board is doing is routing the power into the pedal, but if you put the wrong order in you’ll get the wrong order out. The pcb isn’t getting -9v and ground the way it needs. The grounds are now “positive ground”, so yes, the input and output jacks...