Recent content by Bucksears

Very well said. I've got an etched HF-2 board (125-B sized) which I configured during the COVID quarantine, that I still haven't gotten around to building. About the power filtering mention above, this board can build both flangers - IMO the power filtering is just a plus. Gorgeous builds!

Did AionFX do a Metal Zone? I can't seem to find it on their site.

Resurrecting this one - getting the itch for some metal.

I'll give that a try - thx!

Finished up my PPCB Nucleus (XTS Atomic Overdrive) last night. It works fine, but compared to other dirt pedals I have, it's quite compressed and doesn't feel as 'open'. As it is using JFETs in a config similar to Jack Orman's Miniboosters, would using all 2N5457s instead of J201s (or even...

Looks great! I've got a vero board one waiting in the pile, but might have to expedite it.

Wampler did that WAY back when, briefly. I forget the company name it was under, but he had kits similar to GGG - i.e. the classics - but also a few Wampler circuits as well. I still have the CrankedAC PCB.

Best looking pedal I've seen in a while - well done, sir

Could I conceivably use the V1 board and update with the V2 values?

I built one recently and I'm underwhelmed. I guess I'm so used to Big Muffs and Fuzz Faces - this one sounds more.........messy......than the other fuzzes. Like more inarticulate. I'll play with the transistors a little more, but at this rate, it's going on the shelf.

I was going to say..........Tatooine?

Does anyone make mini-sized knobs in the OG Russian Big Muff shape? I saw a pic where someone had them on the new mini Russian reissue, but just said that he 'bought some printed ones'. I was thinking of doing a Red Army Overdrive in a 125B with them. Like these (at Smallbear), only smaller:

Great timing - I got the itch to try some lower (than typical) gain transistors for my Big Muff builds. My main one is a GGG-tuned BMP (VRH variant), which was running 2N5089s. Just a ridiculous 'thick wall of lightning' fuzz. I binge-bought some BC109Bs (Smallbear) and BC550Bs (Tayda); the...

Sorry, I meant to say, that same resistor on my build doc (between the emitter of Q1 and the positive end of C8) is 10K. R10 (between the collector of Q1 the positive end of C7) is 10K also.

Yep, it's definitely 10K in my relative location. Would removing that (putting it on a toggle) accomplish the same thing, even though it's a different value?