Recent content by Chuck D. Bones

It's such a minor change that I chose to not roll the rev #. It was a judgement call.

Schematic has been corrected. (y)

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A minor update. Added R12 and rewired the PRESENCE pot. Ref des updated.

I might fiddle a capacitor value or two, but other than that, it's finished.

I still couldn't leave well enough alone. Gator expressed an interest in being able to control the mids. I tried a few different tone stacks and landed on a modified BMP tone network. My experimentation with the tone stack on the modded Hoof lead me to try it on the Gator OD and it seems to...

Here's the latest version. I used a MOSFET booster for the last stage and retuned the tone stack a little. This schematic is drawn for modding the Hoof board. If you're designing a new board, I'd make the SHIFT pot (VR3) A50K, wire it backwards (CW increases resistance) and label it MIDS...

It's easier just to use a BJT for the last stage. I'll provide a schematic in the fullness of time.

Yes, you could just leave R1A out and the the FAT switch would work fine. R1A is there to provide a little gain boost in TIGHT mode and it is also part of the EQ between the input jack & Q1. C1A attenuates a good portion of the bass & midrange, so I wanted to make up for some of the loss by...

30C (30% log taper) might be hard to find. Most audio-taper pots I see for sale are 15%, which will work just fine. For that matter, a linear pot will work there too.

I'm feeling a bit nostalgic on this one, my first PedalPCB project from August 2018. I've had a love/hate relationship with the Big Muff for many, many moons. For all it's potential, I've struggled to get one to sound the way I like. Smarter people might say "maybe you're building the wrong...

My thought was we could use the A/B box to establish whether HamishR is really hearing what he thinks he's hearing. My A/B box has a stomp switch and no indicator, so after a few random pressed it's hard to know which way it's connected.

If there was ever a guy who needed an A/B box...

The tuner is buffered-bypass, yes? you're saying that with the Timberman engaged, you can tell the difference between the DM-2 in bypass mode and a short cable in place of the DM-2?

A couple of questions: What do you have immediately upstream and down stream of the DM-2? Is there any combinations of pedals that is particularly sensitive to the presence of the DM-2 when it's in bypass mode? The presence of the buffers could alter the interaction of two pedals in the chain...