Recent content by danfrank

I blew off reading most of this thread because I'm lazy but to answer the OPs question, YES! some electrolytics need to be replaced in old pedals... IE, like old Japanese electrolytics from the 1970s... I'm talking about the grey ones with blue writing, they suck! Lol! Those DO NOT hold up well...

This was API's claim to fame with their 2520 op amp module made from discreet parts... I have an old Pholbrick op amp module that uses two 12AX7s as the active devices. See attached...

Great job! The Sould Vendor (TBMK3) is a great fuzz... Q1&Q2 form a Darlington pair so they can be low gain and low leakage... I have a bunch of germanium Qs that have gains in the 20-30s range and had nothing to use them in... Well, the SB is a great place to use them in positions 1&2.

To the OP... Second jack from the left in your pic needs to be mono switched, NOT TRS... TRS will just ground out either the "B" input or "A" output, depending on how you wired the jack. You need one of these: Attach output "A" to the "switch" lug, "B" input to "tip" lug... Hope this helps...

The Kilimanjaro fuzz is basically a more builder friendly Tone Bender MKI... Q1&3 need to be leaky... Q2 can be leaky but the circuit actually works better with a low leakage transistor in Q2, especially if you like some of the attack knob to have "gated fuzz". BTW, I like the enclosure... I'm...

Hi everyone. The Kilimanjaro fuzz board has been outta stock for a long time and I've wanted to build one, so I used a Tone Vendor MKI board and just did the changes needed on board. The Kilimanjaro is basically a MKI with a couple of bells and whistles extra. The trimmer on the Kilimanjaro...

Ok, I resurrect this necro thread!!! I am the one that created it, so I get to decide when it dies! Bwa ha ha ha!! All joking aside, when I wrote the above post my MK1 was working and sounding great. At minimum attack, it was all gatey and choppy sounding and at full attack it sounded like a...

Using the 30k resistor, the LED is consuming 0.2ma or around 200 microamps, which is basically, nothing. Using a 47k resistor will consume even less current, using 16k, the LED will consume around 0.4ma In olden days, 2ma or less would be considered low current for an LED. I don't know what is...

FYI, the LM2937 is the same as a LM2940 reg (LDO) but only good for up to 500ma: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM2937ET-15-NOPB?qs=X1J7HmVL2ZEWqTJ5%252BIk1bA%3D%3D&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-3mtMXJ-gIVmRXUAR022AgkEAAYASAAEgKcIvD_BwE

I know I'm late to the party... Look at the attached pic to see the mod. Disregard the voltages, those are just notes that may or may not apply. I'm currently working on this one, I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Does the Warthog make phone calls? My index finger is at the ready!

I bought some of those Intersil FETs, probably from the same ebay seller about a year ago. They are supper nice! The were probably for a mil-spec customer originally because they are like triple packaged. The packaging of each individual FET probably cost more than the actual FET!

For the most part, mods on an amp rarely make the amp sound better. Different, yes, but rarely better. The established amp companies have tried just about every possible combination to get the best sound out of an amp. Just about every amp that has come out after 1980 is just a rehash of...

FUK!!! That's fancy. Dymos have come a long way!

I don't know what to the guy in the pic is doing, but I love to SMASH!