Recent content by eatkinola

The anode and cathode plates should also be visible on tinted LEDs. I have to remove my glasses from these tired eyes to see them, but the plates are visible.

Thanks! I'll read up more on how to do this.

Is there a way to backup an ATTINY chip (such as that used for VIIB and Low Tide) in case the chip needs to be replaced -- in which case the backup could be loaded onto a fresh chip? Perhaps the ATTINY chips are sturdy enough that having a backup is not really needed? If the chip were to go bad...

"welcome to you're doom" It otherwise looks really nice!

Really like this advice. Most probably make mistakes along the way but learn how to salvage the build and avoid in future. That's the fun part, and this forum is a great resource. Starting with a simple pedal is a great idea. A rat is a really simple build with an opamp and great character, if...

Hey @Nix how about this? https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/m800/ You'll need through-hole J201s which can be hard to find. I bought these which are smds on adapter boards: https://stompboxparts.com/transistors/j201-smt-to-to92/ I've not yet assembled the board but have all the parts and look...

PhaseII has a dense board and thus calls for smaller resistors, or you can do what I did and stand up larger 1/4 watt resistors. This took a bit longer, especially since I want the populated board to look nice and all lined up, but it was a very satisfying build and sounds great. I say go for it!

Isopropyl alcohol 91% from the drug store Yeah these kimwipes! I was misspelling it.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/basic-workflow-tips-for-building-a-pedalpcb.1165/ Try this method with IPA-soaked chem wipe. It grabs the flux instead of just pushing it around with toothbrush. I've had good success with this. After 1-2 times with a soaked chemwipe, I'll make one pass with...

Awesome! Thanks for the info. Great build you did, and I appreciate the demo.

Have you built the Byzantium yet? I see the 557 has the same basic characteristics as the 560 but is not low noise. Hoping this is not an issue. I've already soldered the 550Bs so hoping I can just drop in the 557B in lieu of 560.

^ As above, I'm also curious if that pn needs to be lifted from the 8038 purchased from @PedalPCB since I have one slated for a vibrobot tremolo.

Would closing up the case be dark enough?

Do the tantalum capacitors for the signal path need to be of a certain VDC? The Skeptical Buffer PCB graphic indicates 25V for C3, C6, C8, and C10. Is that correct? Just wanted to clarify before I source the parts, the higher-VDC caps are more expensive and larger (especially the 47u).

Really dig your site and PCBs, Robert. Any ETAs for: Muroidea, Dream Fuzz, Cepheid Chorus, Duocast Mini? These would round out what I *need* for now, but the more I look the more I want.