Recent content by eatkinola

If the meter probe is pointy enough, you can still get a measurement pretty easily at the base of the leg where it meets the board, despite the leg being mostly covered.

^^^ This works very well. Silicone sheathing from flexible stranded wire tolerates heat much better than plastic sheathing or shrink wrap.

Does anyone have a schematic for Playground? https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb710/

Found this thread while troubleshooting the same issue. Thanks for the tip, Robert! I built one converter using XP Power ITR0305S09 (333 mA) and another using TRACO TBA 1-0519 (110 mA). I tested them using both a battery and cheapo power supply. The DMM placed at each output jack of the...

The walls on these SBP pro boxes are a smidge thicker than the standard version. I use the pro boxes for all builds and find them easy to drill using a template, center punch, pilot hole, then step bit counting the steps as @iamjackslackof mentions. I use a hand drill and am happy with the...

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/NE5534P?qs=j%2FZo4ajzVJKxgUairxFvRg%3D%3D&srsltid=AfmBOoqcVIE-j4ZuybzLnhvJdO0p6GlMPj6Ru-7YAe_fNs8tzavr5YoZ

For what it's worth I was having the same issue with rhythmic thumping of this circuit, especially at higher vol or gain, and came across this thread trying to find a solution. Switching from a wall wart to a better power supply (one spot cs6) fixed the thumping. Well the pedal is still a little...

The drill template suggests making a very large circular hole that would be mostly covered by the template. I've seen others drill a smaller hole then use a metal file to make it rectangular like the faceplate -- that's what I did. Aluminum is rather easy to file down.

That looks about right. The slide switch can touch the adapter board as long as the solder points don't touch the case of the switch (would cause a short). I assembled the adapter board, switch, and header pins as you have pictured here. However, the whole structure may need to be lifted off the...

Also I found that chisel tips work very well for these projects, probably due to better heat transfer, though ymmv.

I use lead free solder exclusively, with a haako fx888 run at 750 F. Works very well, very easy to work with even if having to desolder something and wick it away with copper braid helped with some flux. Had trouble in past due to a bad iron tip. Chipped or dirty tips don't transfer heat well. I...

@jubal81 what do you use for your faceplates, material and printing? I really like that approach!

The anode and cathode plates should also be visible on tinted LEDs. I have to remove my glasses from these tired eyes to see them, but the plates are visible.

Thanks! I'll read up more on how to do this.

Is there a way to backup an ATTINY chip (such as that used for VIIB and Low Tide) in case the chip needs to be replaced -- in which case the backup could be loaded onto a fresh chip? Perhaps the ATTINY chips are sturdy enough that having a backup is not really needed? If the chip were to go bad...