R2, R3 and C1 may be part of a filter which is probably important to the tone of the pedal. A few more resistors won’t add significant noise compared to what the clipping will do to the signal. I think. I’m not familiar with this circuit.
There is one 1.5M pull down on the input whose value is not super critical since its job is to drain current to ground to avoid floating voltages. Two of them are used to connect to Vref to avoid grounding the signal where the value is again not important: their job is to have a tiny current...
What do you use to tighten them? I never had a problem with either the lumberg style or the regular innie ones from Tayda. I use my needle nose pliers to tighten. To me, as long as the nut doesn’t rattle, it’s tight enough. Haven’t had a problem so far but I’ll report if I do!
I also have mixed luck with blu tack (loctite fun-tak). It’s become a bit stiff and not super sticky so I do get lifted parts occasionally. But I still prefer it to other methods, I think the tape would drive me crazy.
Alright I think I sorted this out. The LED was never working so I disconnected. Then I plugged in the pedal and it now works perfectly fine! I’m not surprised btw, once I fried an LED in a pedal and the sound was gone.
Well, I had never played one of these so I have no idea whether it sound...
OK I realized my testing setup was incorrect. When using a battery, one needs to plug a jack in otherwise the battery ground is lifted. When testing voltages, I connected the negative lead to the battery negative lead and then using the positive lead to test. All the tests conducted this way...
Ok I tested the foot switch outside of the pedal and it seems to work fine. I also disconnected the LED in case it was creating issues, but that was fine. The true bypass mod looks correct.
My guess is that one of the caps is busted and causing the problem, but without a verified schematic I’m...