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Yeah @Nostradoomus pointed out the solder joints already. You mentioned you had reflowed the solder joints? Maybe add another picture so we can do further visual inspection? After another look I do think the GND pads need to be connected to ground too. I didn’t notice that at first. I don’t...

Now I’m intrigued! I don’t think I’m that smart but I would be happy to design and build an acrylic faceplate if you’re interested!

Maybe I’m misremembering and it was 2mm thickness that caused me issues?

Yeah on top of the aluminum enclosure. If I go above 1mm or maybe 1.2mm I can get into trouble. Not sure how thick Tayda enclosures are but it’s gotta be at least 1mm? I should take another look at some of my failed faceplates.

How are you audio probing this? What tools are you using? What you describe doesn’t make a lot of sense. You can’t have signal at the output of IC1 but not at the input. One thing others have not mentioned: did you make sure all the components have the correct values? Did you measure them...

I make laser engraved acrylic faceplates and I can say that more than 1mm is going to be a problem because pot shafts are not usually long enough for more than that. Basically you end up not being able to screw the nuts back on. Also phrasing.

The difference is that in an isolated jack the sleeve is disconnected from the chassis, which is usually grounded, so you can lift the ground easily. Edit: search for “insulated jack” on Tayda.

I always wonder why people use transformers if a ground lift will do the same job? What are the pros and cons of either solution?

The solder joints on the switch could be hotter and with more solder. Check out some other build reports. The back of the board is pretty covered in flux and it’s hard for me to tell if all the solder joints are good. I would start with a very thorough visual inspection to make sure they are all...

Keep them coming man! I missed seeing your builds and demos! Always great stuff.

Thanks! I had 4 different attempts with various tweaks. I should’ve used a cheaper material for testing. Oh well.

Welp, almost 4 years later I finally made a faceplate for this.

I built this a couple years ago and I’m pretty sure the switch lets you select a broad or narrow eq shape. It doesn’t quite get into cocked wah territory but the narrow Q is very noticeable with a distortion before it. From JHS:

The switch is a Q control no? Albeit pretty coarse with just two values.

Very nice clean build! No demo? ;)

That said, after further research I ended up ordering some latching push buttons from Tayda. They are not as cool (and probably not as sturdy) as some of the metal momentary push buttons they have but it’ll do for a kids toy.

And btw you can make three latching switches with one single chip which is not bad.

I ended up using a CD4069 and this circuit: https://leap.tardate.com/Electronics101/CD4069/PushButtonLatch/ and it works like a charm.

So who’s trying one of these out?!? Would they work in existing circuits or do we have to make a new one?

Hey guys, I vaguely remember taking a digital circuit class in college but nothing stuck with me apparently… I promised the kids that I would make them a little box with some pots and switches and LEDs that they can play with (my daughter has been calling it her Time Machine [not sure why my...