You don't have to wire them in your schematic drawing order. Electrically, the nodes all see the same voltage. So, you could have a trace that goes 10k -> lug 1 of tone -> anode of 4148 -> cathode of 1n34a ... and be fine.
It's all part of the process... Make sure to order a handful of ICs instead of just one or two. I typically get 10 to 20 op amps each time I do an order.
First, awesome pedal as always! The stacked boards are a ton of fun to build imo.
I'm a huge fan of Fairfield Circuitry pedals and agree that sometimes you can get some unpleasant surprises (see what I did there) from them. They do remind me of the best Dwarfcraft Devices pedals in that way...
Both your op amps were installed upside down on the first picture.
A notch in the center of one edge or dot closer to one side than the other typically denotes where pin 1 of the IC is located.
On the PCB for an IC, the silk screen image will typically have the notch and pin 1 will be a...
I used the pot as a rheostat in this design and that is how I've normally done it. I've tried setting up the starve pot as a voltage divider with the third lug going through a resistor to ground to at least have some voltage going through and haven't had the results I was looking for with the...
I'm with you on FuzzDog designs, I like that he's got some different designs than here, but I really don't like the side jacks either so I end up adjusting everything like you.
I've been holding off on anything for Tayda now thanks to the tariffs. In the last few orders I've done here's how it has broken down for me:
Potentiometers and some ICs: Stomp Box Parts
Most any IC or transistor: Mouser
Most through hole parts: Tayda is still cheaper when including tariffs and...
What transistor did you use? It looks like you installed it backwards compared to the silkscreen. I just built this same pcb to the gc-1 spec last weekend and it worked with no issues.