Recent content by mckillacuddy

Labels look to have turned out pretty well. I like the cream city one. (I really just wanted to say hell yes, Soviet surplus munitions.)

Long spans don't really cause much trouble. There's clearance if you're careful. Kind of like a guitar string, I guess. Cutting traces can be a bitch though. You can't get through the plated through holes by hand with a twist drill like you can with other boards. You need a sharp and strong tool...

What's the accouterments there? Does the 709 need that stuff to work?

What's the significance of Ge diodes in those spots?

Unless you're playing old cool death metal, thank you very much!

Sick. I want a digi/foldback fuzz with the Punisher arc Reavers on it

lm308's from an elderly experimentalist's workshop? That's pure mojo. Build it

So slick. Trace cut for R7?

Thought so. Just being curious now: I think I understand resistor noise will be most apparent on the audio path, but how about power supply vs. audio periphery, say a vref voltage divider vs. a buffer emitter resistor?

Does physical size, say 1/8watt vs. 1/4watt, affect noise?

Ooh me! I've been really curious but I'm out of breadboards and I suck at layouts

I like to shrinky dink off board connections and appreciate when I see it. And while I don't personally glue stuff like LEDs or jacks, I don't mind a bit when people do

Dooo it! 28.625" is the perfect scale length. Longer than a typical 7-string but shorter than a typical twanger baritone. AND, slap a capo at the 2nd fret and you've got a fat gauge fender

I, for one, appreciate your inclusion of the Swedish technique whether you meant to or not. I consider it a necessity for thorough demonstration of any hm2oid. That said, the boost brings the brutes!! The Russian/Swedish combo is something I'd never have tried on my own, but I've been mulling a...

That'd fit the look of this one just about right