Recent content by PJS

I have a cheap hot air station and so to remove a chip like that I would personally use that as I have the tool. If you don't then solder a piece of copper wire to all the pins down one side and then over and down the other side. Then you will be able to use a soldering iron to melt the solder...

First step is to lift the end of R5 that connects to 3.3V and connect it to ground instead. That will use the internal patches instead of the EEPROM. If that corrects the noise issue then the EEPROM programming is likely the issue - or the connection between the EEPROM and the FV-1

It is always difficult checking soldering from a photo, because you don't get the full 3D view of he joint, but from the 2D some of those solder joints look as if they didn't get enough solder or enough heat to me. I would double check the joints and maybe reflow.

I have built the Drebbel Bass preamp, which has a big muff tone control and also a separate mid control. With the mid control turned all the way down on that the tone control does function as a volume control, so that tone setup does seem to be a bit interactive in that way. I have built 6...

We've all done it

If the circuit passes signal to the output in bypass, then the signal is getting to the footswitch. If the signal is not getting to the switch when not in bypass, then as others have suggested there must be some short that is only an issue when the switch is switched "on"

Assuming you are running off 9v you should be getting 0V on pin 11 and about 9V on pin 4 of both the op amps. You need to work out why you aren't

If the ones you designed are the ones I just printed then thank you very much. I printed some for dual gang pots and they are awesome.

I have a fair bit of experience with component lead ends piercing electrical tape easily. If that is all that is on your pots assume they are not insulated unless you have made it really really thick (like thick enough that even if the longest cut lead end went in as deep as it possibly could...

Looking at the 2 different switch wiring schemes I do not think this bypass board could do the buffered bypass method. The traces hard wired into the PCB are going to be different enough not to allow buffered bypass. I am not sure whether or not Pedal PCB sell one to do it. You could do up...

Yes, it looks like normal operation for them to be working whenever the power is applied. Obviously the the one inside the case doesn't matter too much. The one outside the case will give you a visual idea of the rate it is set to before you engage it - just to make sure it seems right and the...

I can't see a crystal (X1) installed. The FV-1 won't work without that. Also, you need to redo a significant amount of the soldering. It looks as if most of the legs of the voltage regulator are not soldered at all, which won't help with powering the chip. Probably not an issue with...

The clock and data signals between the processor and EEPROM will measure 3.3v - they are digital signals alternating between 3.3v and 0v. With a multimeter they read 3.3v. You will need an oscilloscope to determine more detail about these signals, but it sounds as if they are present. I have...

The -9V pin on the charge pump is not measuring -9V. That -9v connects directly to the power pins on the op amps, and you measured -9V on both of those (or close enough). That does suggest to me that the charge pump can deliver -9v, but doesn't always. I would definitely be looking at the...

I had a problem on a different FV-1 pedal once where it would work fine on the internal programs but not external. The pins on the FV-1 had continuity to the pins on the EEPROM according to the multimeter. When I retouched the solder on the FV-1 pins it suddenly worked. The high speeds of the...