Ibanez FL-99, Boss HF-2, MXR Micro Flanger.
'bout it for accessible projects.
Also, why did Cool Audio never continue production of this or at least make it available to anyone other than MXR... I just don't get it.
Wondered what happened to this, hope life isn't giving you too much grief.
I'd be surprised if it was 13kHz to 570kHz, 130kHz seems more likely.
As it's just a standard triangle op-amp LFO driving an LED you can use any LFO and clock you like really... as long as the clock is fine running off...
Well, I wouldn't say planned but you know how it is in the heat of the soldering... sometimes it just flows a little too quickly.
I know absolutely nothing about the mattress or monktress so any of that business is between other people.
I'd say it probably depends on how willing you are to settle for good instead of perfect, you can build most any optical DIY build without matching unless it's specified or you're trying to replace a dual vactrol with two singles in specific circuits... the Mutron III would be an example of a...
Sorry, I've just realised I sent you on a wild goose chase, the vibrato wave should be a little bigger than the chorus.
I think be sure you haven't got any wrong values for R3-6 and then wait until you get the new CD4011 and see if it clears matters up.
VR should be 7V5 plus or minus a bit.
So if D4 & 5 were disconnected, I'd expect a vibrato wave bigger than the triangle so... broken trace, dodgy diodes, iffy solder joints are things you should be looking at.
The LFO won't work with a TL072.
I really don't think the problem is LFO tick, it's more a VCO tick... obviously the LFO's swing does impact the amount of control voltage though and the swing does differ between chorus & vibrato mode.
Notice how your vibrato mode clock is higher than chorus...
So the thump is probably less LFO tick and more the BBD thumping when the clock goes wonky.
Quickly try tacking some small caps in parallel with C1 & 2 (22pF or something) to see if getting the max clock frequency down will stop it overshooting, it is a little high, may be down to the chip...
8.6V x 2 minus two diode losses and charge pump inefficiency is let's say... 16.2V and the regulator needs at least 17V to do its job.
That'll probably be your issue.
Check your values and polarities first and foremost, also depth should be measured at the middle leg of the depth pot, sounded more like you were measuring it on the LFO op-amp output.
See what your clock frequencies are as well while you're there.