Recent content by temol

@Feral Feline - It's probably in the corner of the basement, in the same box as the Rototron :). Under a pile of firewood. ;)

I think you should... to see for yourself. It's worth gaining experience. I doubt you'll hear the difference between 39 and 47p... or 56p. Taking into account the tolerance spread, it may turn out that your 39p is 42p. Green is 39p, blue 47p, red 56p. This is for a single cap, second opamp and...

D5... ;) Breadboarding now... from Zeppelin to ACDC.

Mine is "working". I still can't bring myself to analyze the noise issue - quite strong hum in the low frequency range. I have two suspects so far - tube heaters or transformer. Oh, and I ordered the PCBs myself.

IDSS or Vp? 0.9mA for the MMBFJ201 seems to be really high value. -0.9V - ok (but in the higher range).

Rev 0.2 in 0805

The 1N4007 diodes should have different numbering. They are now D3 and D4, duplicating the LEDs.

@djathey, @keyth72 - big thanks! :)

@keyth72 - I could not find any info about function of the dipswitch. thanks!

Second interview with DG.

A friend sent me an EBS Dynaverb pedal for inspection. It's a digital (probably DSP) reverb. It worked flawlessly for a long time, until suddenly some digital noise appeared. I looked inside – there were no signs of damaged components (the capacitors looked fine), and no signs of water damage...

"From Monday, 25 August 2025, no shipments to the USA due to changes in customs regulations". Quote from German webstore (synth-parts). I wonder if this is an exception or will soon become a more common sight.

It is good practice to separate IN and OUT. Maybe not that much as on my example, but in-led-gnd-out should be enough. Why such thin tracks? Why ground pour only on the bottom?

Buy smd version of the J201 - MMBFJ201. they are cheaper and more reliable. You don't even need daughterboards for them. Chop Shop has solder pads for smd transistors. Check PPCB (3$ for 5 pieces), Mouser...

In my basement :) . 100% DIY.