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It's my own work.

There's no connection to GND. Just insert switch between diode and transformer (or diode and pin 3 of the potentiometer).

Only one diode. With the switch open there's only fuzz, no octave.

Like this?

It's when you set the Tone knob at noon ;) But it's also a printing technique that simulates grafients, continuous colors/shades of gray with small dots (of various sizes).

I think I'd run the trace from the 1N5817 to the 100u and run all the supply traces from the capacitor. Something like this (red is an alternative route)

I don't remember what voltage I set. Test it in the 4-6.5V range, see how the sound character changes, and choose the setting that suits you best.

Measure the voltage on pin 1 (marked in red). It should be the same as on pin 3 (marked in green). Full CCW means minimum voltage (max sag). Bias should be set as if there was no SAG potentiometer at all (full CW).

I wasn't referring to Tayda, actually. I was referring to using a jumper instead of an inductor. If you plug these values into an LC filter calculator, you'll get the filter's GHz cutoff values.

Now I have it installed. make -C libDaisy worked without errors, same with make -C DaisySP. Now I get errors when trying to compile to bin files. pluto.cpp: In function 'int main()': pluto.cpp:926:8: error: 'class daisy::DaisyPetal' has no member named 'InitMidi' 926 | hw.InitMidi()...

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/whats-on-the-workbench.4225/page-159#post-362042

I agree.. Now I have everything in my user directory. It's better, but still a bit of a struggle. $ make -C libDaisy make: Entering directory 'C:/Users/root/FunBox/libDaisy' mkdir -p build/Drivers/Patched/STM32H7xx_HAL_Driver/Src arm-none-eabi-gcc -mthumb -mfloat-abi=hard -mfpu=fpv5-d16...

J113, 2N5457...

Until now, I've been playing with pre-made bin files downloaded from Releases. But I wanted to try Mercury, which isn't available as a bin file. So... I installed Git, downloaded everything I needed, and replaced the daisy_petal files. The first problem occurred with the next step - I ran Git...

How dare you...

There is enough space to easily fit a 6.3mm diameter cap. Just pay attention to the pinout raster - it looks like 2.5mm.

Not necessarily. It could be the GND solder pad, so it's normal for there to be a connection to the surrounding copper layer. Look at the solder pad marked in red. There are small bridges (like spokes) connecting the solder point to the copper (called thermal reliefs). Take a good look around...

Check this out. It's a great method for desoldering multi-pin components.

Before you swallow them? :) Sorry, I couldn't resist. Maybe you have a pedal where the opamp can be swapped? Single opamp.