Referring to the Tear Jerker schematic...
C2 limits the bass coming in. Increase to 100nF to fatten up the bottom end.
C6-C13 set the sweep range. Double them all for bass guitar.
C3 is often overlooked. It limits how low the sweep can go. Increase it to 47uF
That's it. No need to bother with C4 or C14, they're plenty large.
Those changes will get you some subterranean wah sounds.
Recommended initial trimmer settings:
MID full CCW.
VOL full CCW.
LOW at noon.
Q at noon. Q affects the high end of the sweep more than the low end.
I recommend making Q an external pot.
Don't waste your money on an expensive inductor. The one SBP sells for $5 is plenty good.
The DIP switch could be replaced with an 8-position rotary switch.
If you do that, change the range caps to:
C5 = 4.7nF
C6 = empty
C7 = 4.7nF
C8 = 15nF
C9 = 33nF
C10 = 47nF
C11 = 68nF
C12 = 100nF
C13 = 150nF
Wire the common pin of the rotary sw to DIP sw pin 16.
Wire pins 2-8 to DIP sw pins 2-8.
Leave pin 1 not connected.
If you want more headroom, power the pedal with 18V and change R6 to 39K. Note: change R6 only if you will ALWAYS run it at 18V.
One other item of note:
Like the original CryBaby, this pedal DOES NOT have a buffered input or output. For better or worse, it will interact with what comes before it and what comes after it. For example, if you drive a FuzzFace with this pedal, strange things can happen.
You can try making the Gilmour Echoes squeal with your bass by hooking this pedal up backwards (Bass guitar to the output, amp to the input). Be warned: it will get LOUD! You'll want to put a compressor or volume pedal between this and the amp to avoid blowing speakers, breaking windows, setting off car alarms, etc.