Golden Falk Build Doc Cap Specs - Typo?

Caldo71

Caldo71

Active member
Nevermind…the build specs say ceramic for everything, but then the appropriate ones DO say film right next door in notes. Semitypo.

Can’t figure out how to delete posts on mobile, derp. @Robert you can zap this post.
 
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Caldo71 said:
Hey so I’m just starting this build, and the build doc has every single cap other than the two usual 100U electros spec’ed as CERAMIC DISK.

That’s a TYPO, right @Robert ?

I looked at three different builds of this pedal here on the forum and they all as-expected have box caps where the “n” (as opposed to the “p”) values are stated. So I think that’s the deal…just wanna be sure there’s not supposed to be some magical tone reason that one would use ceramics!
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If I recall correctly the original uses ceramics but box caps work so pretty much all of us who have made them use the box caps. You can use either. Amazing sounding pedal enjoy.
 
Dan0h said:
If I recall correctly the original uses ceramics but box caps work so pretty much all of us who have made them use the box caps. You can use either. Amazing sounding pedal enjoy.
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Yeah everyone is going nuts about this one I’m excited! And intrigued…all those transistors and zero ICs…very unique for a BSIAB….
 
After the earlier conversation on this thread I decided to built another Golden Falk using nothing but MLCCs...and yeah it sounds bitchin'.

Question: is there a "tone reason" why a pedal designer would choose almost entirely ceramics for a pedal that's trying to imitate a Plexi (or any other kind of pedal)?

Assuming one methodically tests and hand-picks each cap for excellent adherence to the designer's stated value for that component (which I do) can a ceramic cap actually make some magical difference in tone, dynamics, touch responsiveness, whatever versus film/box caps?

Or is just more of a "sturdiness-and-practicality" kinda choice? Like the aforementioned long life and durability of ceramics?
 
benny_profane said:
You’re almost certainly putting far more effort into that than any OEM does.
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LOL I'm sure you're right! I've always been a bit fearful of NOT cherrypicking my components as being very close to the stated build doc values, in the two or so years I've been into this hobby.

But man, I've just never been sure how much a cap being like 5 or ten k high or low really matters, and I've almost been scared to ask that question here...for fear of opening up a massive pandora's box of cork-sniffing demons and random un-scientifically-tested opinions.
 
Caldo71 said:
I've just never been sure how much a cap being like 5 or ten k high or low really matters
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In some cases, it will matter (e.g., setting a clock frequency), in other cases, not so much. Even with tone shaping, we’re not dealing with precision filters.
 
benny_profane said:
In some cases, it will matter (e.g., setting a clock frequency), in other cases, not so much. Even with tone shaping, we’re not dealing with precision filters.
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Good to know. Time to use that shitload of caps that didn't pass muster on cranking out some janky-ass pedals that actually sound exactly the same as my "boutique" builds.
 
Caldo71 said:
@spi that's really the beginning and end of it? They're just cheaper?
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I can't speak to the intent of the original maker (were they cheap, or did they have some mojo caps)?

You'll have to use your ears decide if there's any difference in changing type of caps, but IMO a cap is a cap. I like the box ones because they're easy to work with.
 
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