a RAT with extras sauce and another amp-in-a-box

[Fuzzonaut]

The LOWRIDER is a pcb from inverted cross audio, it's a RAT at heart with some additions.

LEVEL, FILTER, GAIN are your usual supects ... then,

CLEAN is the balance between the clean signal (processed by BODY) and the distorted signal
BODY is a low pass filter applied to clean signal,
SHAPE is a high pass filter on the dirt side (also a gain modifier)

Switches:
CLIP : Silicon/Led/Germanium
SHAPE : 3 types of high pass filter (gain modifier)

Uses two J201 (smd) and an OP07. It was a bit of a b*tch to put toghether, not only for the smd fiddling, but mainly because the BoM and PCB were not having the same numbers for the components ... I had to continuity beep my way around the pcb, checking with the schematic, to make sure I'd put the components into the correct slots... and finally off board wiring for the switches, meh ...
Oh well, maybe I'm just too spoiled ... or old?

But hey, it sounds great and has a lot of options that come in handy with bass, so in the end, it was worth building it.




And a pcb from Fuzzdog, that's supposed to be the Fuzzlord FET120, loosely based on the OR-120 delivering the "classic tones of 70s OR series amplifiers".
Yep, it sure does that, sounds great on bass and guitar (and probably anything else).
GAIN goes from adding some hair to the enlarged balls of your tone to fuzzy and saturated sounds.
Uses 2N5457 (as recommended by Fuzzdog).

 

[tegendemuur]

There's tits and I hit like.

 

[Fama]

Uses two J201 (smd) and an OP07. It was a bit of a b*tch to put toghether, not only for the smd fiddling, but mainly because the BoM and PCB were not having the same numbers for the components ...

I was going to ask if you remembered what was wrong with the build docs, but it's very clear on a quick glance that the 125B build docs are for the "Top" version of the PCB with a relay and what not, while both you and me have the Standard version without those (and with less parts overall). I think the correct build docs would be in the 1590B folder here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JgQKCHzvUVj1czKCF_DTwXoJpFf21zEb

Unless your issue was that those build docs are also wrong?

Edit: Now that you pointed it out, I realized I was looking at the wrong build docs for my 909 board too, and that's why the measurements of the drill template were off by a couple of mm - with the correct board they all match up to what I measured by hand on the board.

 

[Fuzzonaut]

I was going to ask if you remembered what was wrong with the build docs, but it's very clear on a quick glance that the 125B build docs are for the "Top" version of the PCB with a relay and what not, while both you and me have the Standard version without those (and with less parts overall). I think the correct build docs would be in the 1590B folder here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JgQKCHzvUVj1czKCF_DTwXoJpFf21zEb

Unless your issue was that those build docs are also wrong?

Edit: Now that you pointed it out, I realized I was looking at the wrong build docs for my 909 board too, and that's why the measurements of the drill template were off by a couple of mm - with the correct board they all match up to what I measured by hand on the board.

I'm not sure just by trying to remember, I might have to dig out my notes, if I can find them.

I think "my problem" was that the numbers of the components (R1, etc. / C1 etc.) on the PCB itself were not identical to the numbers of the PCB in the build doc. Is your PCB (component numbers) exactly the same as the one in the build doc you linked?

It wouldn't surprise me, if I was dumb enough to use the wrong build doc though, so there's that.

 

[Fama]

I'm not sure just by trying to remember, I might have to dig out my notes, if I can find them.

I think "my problem" was that the numbers of the components (R1, etc. / C1 etc.) on the PCB itself were not identical to the numbers of the PCB in the build doc. Is your PCB (component numbers) exactly the same as the one in the build doc you linked?

It wouldn't surprise me, if I was dumb enough to use the wrong build doc though, so there's that.

Yes, the doc I linked for the Lowrider has 15 resistors, while the first doc I checked (because obviously I went to the 125B folder first because I'm building it in a 125B) had 18 resistors. My board has 15 resistors. The other doc also included a relay and a photofet and whatnot. The actual board also looks very different (although to be fair the picture is very hard to make out).

So I would guess that it's indeed a case of looking at the wrong doc, but it's not really your fault, it's a very easy mistake to make and I made the same one first. It wasn't spelled out anywhere that 125B are for the top version with PCB mounted jacks and a relay while 1590B is for the "standard" version with side jacks (obviously I'm still using top jacks for mine in a 125B).

At the very least a "Hey btw this is for version X, if you're looking for version Y check the other folder" note would be useful. Similarly obviously I measure the PCB to double check because I use the Tayda drill tool, but using the wrong drill template could be really irritating, even if the actual pot locations only differ by two mm or so, so it would probably work ok for the 909 at least.

 

[Fuzzonaut]

Yes, the doc I linked for the Lowrider has 15 resistors, while the first doc I checked (because obviously I went to the 125B folder first because I'm building it in a 125B) had 18 resistors. My board has 15 resistors. The other doc also included a relay and a photofet and whatnot. The actual board also looks very different (although to be fair the picture is very hard to make out).

Alright, thanks, but just to be clear: I was not referring to the amount itself of resistors (15), that was identical IIRC, but to the actual numbering of them, as for example R3 was not in the same spot on the actual PCB and the build doc PCB.

 

[Fama]

Alright, thanks, but just to be clear: I was not referring to the amount itself of resistors (15), that was identical IIRC, but to the actual numbering of them, as for example R3 was not in the same spot on the actual PCB and the build doc PCB.

I see. Those also match up for me just fine. The main part of the board does look similar in the relay version but the numbers are different, but at least the LED's are in a different spot. The relay part does sort of look like a daughterboard, or I thought so at first, but who knows. I'll assume the docs are correct since it looks identical to my board at least, I'll report back if I run into any weird issues.