capacitor deep dive

[matmonster58]

I've been looking at a lot @Chuck D. Bones reworks and noticed his frequent use of tantalum capacitors.
What I've gathered so far is that in the signal path:
Film > Tantalum > Aluminum for large values
and
Film > silver mica? >Mlcc > ceramic for small values

I've also found that Mlcc caps are also available in larger values. For a 10uF capacitor in the signal path, would Tantalum or Mlcc be a better choice for audio quality?
Similarly, for a smaller value, is film better than silver mica in the audio path?

Are there any resources that deep dive into capacitor types in audio? And i really mean deep dive. I want to learn about the sound characteristics of capacitor types and dielectrics; polypropylene, polystyrene, c0g, NP0, etc.

It probably doesn't matter much in guitar circuits. It does mater slightly more in microphones and studio outboard gear. Either way this is a hobby and I think using esoteric parts is fun.

I'm thinking something like the skeptical buffer would be good to play with different types of values. It's a high headroom buffer with a little extra happening in the high and low end. It should be the perfect candidate to hear any differences that do exits. It should have enough headroom to play some full mixes through too. You're more likely to hear a difference in capacitors on thinks like cymbals and acoustic guitars I would think.

 

[spi]

I'm interested in hearing what people say, but it's not likely to change my approach (which is to use the cheapest option that fits on the pcb).

 

[jcpst]

I asked this once in the “stuff you’re afraid to ask thread. Here’s the response

Post in thread 'Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask'

Oct 18, 2024

[...]But what’s good for audio path, not good for audio path, etc. I’ve got ceramic, film, electrolytic, tantalum, mlcc…

Best for audio path:

up to about 47nF: C0G ceramic, or film (film caps tend to be larger, pricier and easier to damage while soldering).
from 47nF to maybe 4.7uF: film
above that: electrolytic

I wouldn't use tantalum for audio (or anything, really). When they go bad, they tend to burn a hole in your PCB like a mini-thermite.

MLCCs using X5R or X7R dielectric can be ok for non-critical audio path use (such as guitar effects), if you know what you're...

• JTEX

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[matmonster58]

I'm interested in hearing what people say, but it's not likely to change my approach (which is to use the cheapest option that fits on the pcb).

Yeah I usually use cheaper or midrange components for any dirt and anything that drastically changes the signal. Also for pedals I just want to play with.

I use higher end components for more transparent effects like clean preamps, EQs, and compressors. If I think a pedal is going to earn a spot on my board then I'll use nicer parts too.

Sometimes I like to go overboard on builds and get the expensive resistor and all, mostly because I think it looks nice.

 

[matmonster58]

I asked this once in the “stuff you’re afraid to ask thread. Here’s the response

Post in thread 'Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask'

Oct 18, 2024

[...]But what’s good for audio path, not good for audio path, etc. I’ve got ceramic, film, electrolytic, tantalum, mlcc…

Best for audio path:

up to about 47nF: C0G ceramic, or film (film caps tend to be larger, pricier and easier to damage while soldering).
from 47nF to maybe 4.7uF: film
above that: electrolytic

I wouldn't use tantalum for audio (or anything, really). When they go bad, they tend to burn a hole in your PCB like a mini-thermite.

MLCCs using X5R or X7R dielectric can be ok for non-critical audio path use (such as guitar effects), if you know what you're...

• JTEX

• 
• 

Tantalums seem to be the real contentious one.
I've read lots of conflicting info

It seems like pretty much every capacitor type is available in that 1uf-10uf making the choice even harder

 

[jwin615]

For pf-1.5nfish ranges
Mica>mlcc>carbon
You'll find micas in use in high end pro audio gear more than guitar pedals.
There is a little overlap for micas and films. Films will be smaller where there is overlap.
MLCC have weird non-linear behaviors. Micas are more predictable and less noisy, non-micorphonic.

I'll sub film for eletrolytic in the audio path. If a film won't fit the layout, then tant. Again, theoretical noise.
Micas and tants come with a higher price tag. Up to the builder to decide if they're worth it.
It all makes rock and roll.

 

[matmonster58]

For pf-1.5nfish ranges
Mica>mlcc>carbon
You'll find micas in use in high end pro audio gear more than guitar pedals.
There is a little overlap for micas and films. Films will be smaller where there is overlap.
MLCC have weird non-linear behaviors. Micas are more predictable and less noisy, non-micorphonic.

I'll sub film for eletrolytic in the audio path. If a film won't fit the layout, then tant. Again, theoretical noise.
Micas and tants come with a higher price tag. Up to the builder to decide if they're worth it.
It all makes rock and roll.

Great response!

How do tants compare to similarly priced aluminum caps? A high quality Nichicon or Panasonic cap cost about the same as the tants offered on tayda