Capacitor Sourcing in 2024

[Lytt Effects]

Ok, folks, I'm new here, so bear with me. I have taken a dive into the deep end of the pedal building pool, and I am about to plunge into building ~10 different pedals (all overdrives). Most of the PCBs will be from this here site, and while this isn't my first foray into pedal building, it will be my first time sourcing of all the parts myself.

My question is about capacitors, specifically: where to source them in the year 2024. My general rule is going to follow @Chuck D. Bones recommendation of capacitor choice per value range:

<470pF: MLCC
470pF - 1uF: Film
1uF - 47uF: Tantalum
>47uF: Electrolytic

Except where specific types are called out, that is what I will shoot for. So, as far as sourcing goes, how are we feeling about Tayda when it comes to their Tantalum and Electrolytic caps? From all the research I've done so far, as well as cross-referencing the Aion FX sourcing guide, the only items that are explicitly called out to avoid at Tayda have been electrolytic caps. However, that information may be old, so I'm wondering if things have changed in recent years. Are there any brands I should absolutely avoid when sourcing caps from Tayda?

For the tantalum caps, are the AVX brand available at Tayda ok as well, or should I be looking elsewhere? They are significantly cheaper than the options at Mouser, and it would certainly be ideal to source most parts from the same place if possible. Thoughts?

 

[KR Sound]

I’ve just got a batch of shitty 5¢ electrolytic (surprise) from Tayda, so it Nichicons or any -icons from now on.

 

[Giorfida]

I’ve just got a batch of shitty 5¢ electrolytic (surprise) from Tayda, so it Nichicons or any -icons from now on.

Were they the infamous “JB” caps?

 

[Erik S]

I’ve just got a batch of shitty 5¢ electrolytic (surprise) from Tayda, so it Nichicons or any -icons from now on.

What was shitty about them?

 

[GizzWizzKing]

I source everything possible from tayda and have not had issues. I do avoid their cheapest options and use the ones with tighter tolerances when possible. Only when values are unavailable do I look elsewhere, and even then I will likely substitute if at all possible.

I use MLCC pretty freely for all values (major bang for buck) unless it's in the audio signal path.. but even then I've used them there before without issue.

Tantalum and electrolytics I've used interchangeably if the build calls for a polar cap regardless of value, but tantalum can be a bit pricey compared to electrolytic options for the same value.

 

[brightlight]

Both Tayda's tantalums and electrolytics are fine. For tantalum pretty much whatever (the choices aren't many), but for electrolytics get Panasonic, Nichicon, or any other "-cons" and you'll be fine. I also tend to avoid generic ones, but the Aion FX page you're referencing is definitely a little outdated.

 

[owlexifry]

Electronic Parts Online Store - Tayda Electronics

www.taydaelectronics.com

 

[spi]

I use Tadya for all my capacitor needs. I avoid tantalums like I avoid blood diamonds (which is to say I might have some, but I don't make it a habit).

 

[jwin615]

Tayda mlccs are mostly x7r which you(some) generally don't want in the audio path. C0G NP0 are ideally the type of mlcc you would want to use, if one cares about that. Many use x7r without perceived issues. I try to avoid avoid them at this point, opting for C0G or mica. MLCC can deratr with DC applied too. Though at 9v, not a huge deal assuming your using a 50v or so MLCC.
C0G are about a quarter from mouser, not a huge deal.

Not trying to nor will I get into a debate on the use of these. Do as thou wilt... I'm just firmly in the camp of less potential for noise/unwanted distortion, especially before a multitude of later gain stages, being a good thing. I sleep less badder at night.
Also in the camp of non- cheap tayda electrolytics. At least buy the higher priced tayda ones if not the nichicon or Rubicon. Use film where you can. Low esr is a more gooder thing. Again, they won't always cause an issue, just less likely to cause an issue.

 

[dcfvgb]

I buy most of mine from digikey and mouser. Kemet, Wima, Panasonic, Vishay, Wurth, cornell-illinois

Tayda can be hit n miss.

 

[synthesiserror]

I have no problems with the Tayda electrolytics, and where footprint allows, I often prefer to use their dipped green mylar caps.

I don't buy Wima caps because my dirt boxes don't need automotive qualifications.

 

[Lytt Effects]

Thank you all for the input, it’s greatly appreciated. It seems that Tayda is a fine source, even for Tantalum and Electrolytic, as selection has improved.

I think an interesting practice would be to complete two builds with closely matched components from the ends of the spectrum. IE: one with class II MLCCs, “grey” film caps, cheap electros, all from Tayda VS class I MLCCs, WIMA box caps, tantalum caps in the audio path, and “con” electros elsewhere. Maybe I’ll give this a shot on my first couple of builds, A/B them, and decide what to buy in bulk after.

 

[Lytt Effects]

Tayda mlccs are mostly x7r which you(some) generally don't want in the audio path. C0G NP0 are ideally the type of mlcc you would want to use, if one cares about that. Many use x7r without perceived issues. I try to avoid avoid them at this point, opting for C0G or mica. MLCC can deratr with DC applied too. Though at 9v, not a huge deal assuming your using a 50v or so MLCC.
C0G are about a quarter from mouser, not a huge deal.

Not trying to nor will I get into a debate on the use of these. Do as thou wilt... I'm just firmly in the camp of less potential for noise/unwanted distortion, especially before a multitude of later gain stages, being a good thing. I sleep less badder at night.
Also in the camp of non- cheap tayda electrolytics. At least buy the higher priced tayda ones if not the nichicon or Rubicon. Use film where you can. Low esr is a more gooder thing. Again, they won't always cause an issue, just less likely to cause an issue.

I hear a lot about “in the audio path” stuff, especially when it comes to MLCCs and electros/tantalums. I’m starting to learn schematics and how to read them, but I’m curious if there’s a general rule that can be followed here, or any tricks to knowing what is and isn’t in the audio path by looking at the schematic. I realize this is a topic in and of itself.

I know that for the most part, the schematics I’m using have the power section as a separate piece. So is it then safe to assume that any capacitors in the power section are not in the audio path, and any capacitors in the audio path are not in the power section, or does this not exactly apply? Again, probably a topic in and of itself.