Deeptronics Freeze pedal Troubleshooting

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pbrommer

Well-known member
Okay, so this past weekend I’ve been batting 0 fer every single dang pedal. But this one has me a bit stumped.

When I take out the diode from the DC (which goes to the 3.3V regulator), I get normal voltage but obviously nothing to the rest of the pedal. If I reverse it, I get about 9V on the DC on side of the diode and then about 0.5V on the opposite side. If I put the diode in as shown, I get a voltage drop to 3.3V in and about 1.5V to the TL072.
(This is all without the main module installed)

The voltage regulator gets extremely hot with everything installed normally. Reversed, no over heating.

Any thoughts? Maybe the voltage regulator is mislabeled and backwards? I tried shorting the diode but I got the low input voltage (from the actual dc jack area while testing) issue. It’s definitely something in that voltage area, but I can’t pin it down.
 
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There are regulators that are the same, functionaly, but the pinout are different. I can't recall but it's a very minute difference in naming convention.
Triple check the part ordered vs the part on the BOM and their datasheets.
 
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jwin615 said:
There are regulators that are the same, functionaly, but the pinout are different. I can't recall but it's a very minute difference in naming convention.
Triple check the part ordered vs the part on the BOM and their datasheets.
Click to expand...
Welp, went to the data sheet: yep matches what’s on board. So I pulled it and put it on a breadboard temporarily. Come to find out pinout is reverse on mine from data sheet.
So, that’s a plus. Downside: no extras. Probably going to use one of my bigger 78l05 and then make a voltage divider to 3.3V. Stupid, probably. But waiting 3-5 days for a $1 is asinine here in the semi-boonies.
 
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Ehhh. I'd want an actual regulator.
If the digital is sensitive, I'd hate to risk it personally.
Right tool for the job.
I bet someone could send you one in a PWE. I'm not home and won't be until late tonight so I can't swear I have one on hand.
Curious. Was that a tayda part?
Where are you located?
Anyone have a 3.3v reg you could send pbrommer?
 
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Update: still weird. I’ll post more, but with no regulator in, all 3 pins get full voltage. Voltage divider doesn’t hit 4.5V. Putting in the new regulator outputs nothing.

This is a weird one. I’m thinking it’s coming down to the Audio Ground and Digital Ground needing to be tied together at one point, but I can’t make too many assumptions.
 
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I've been wondering if anyone has assembled one of these from the group buy. Been getting all the parts I needed. You have any pictures of the board assembled? I'm curious to see the layout.
 
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_aj666 said:
I've been wondering if anyone has assembled one of these from the group buy. Been getting all the parts I needed. You have any pictures of the board assembled? I'm curious to see the layout.
Click to expand...
I’ll see if I can get them tomorrow. I’m starting on the Flintlock Flanger first. Progress, but still beating my head.
 
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Here’s a couple pictures. Ignore the terribleness of the pots, etc. I’ll get those cleaned up once it gets boxed. Left is back side, right is top side. DC comes in from the upper right.

Odd thing: tying the 1/4” jack ground to DC ground causes the voltage divider for the TL072 to go from 7.0-7.5V to 1.83V.
 

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pbrommer said:
Here’s a couple pictures. Ignore the terribleness of the pots, etc. I’ll get those cleaned up once it gets boxed. Left is back side, right is top side. DC comes in from the upper right.

Odd thing: tying the 1/4” jack ground to DC ground causes the voltage divider for the TL072 to go from 7.0-7.5V to 1.83V.
Click to expand...
You got an awful lot of stuff on that boards. If I remember correctly the freeze didn't require that much according to the parts build. That and the fog were pretty close in build specs. Unless I missed something on my end 😅
 

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This is what mine was looking like according to the build doc, just needed to add the LM1117 and the pots/switches and it should be up and running.
 

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pbrommer said:
Weyulllllll. Maybe I overstuffed it and couldn’t read. Sometimes me do dumb.
Lemme reread and repopulate the board.
Click to expand...
I almost did the same thing. I am hardwired to populate whatever is printed on the PCB. I was just about to start stuff ALL my boards from the group buy before I actually read the build doc and saved myself a mondo headache.
 
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Update:
Positives — voltages are better by the TL072. Nothing weird happening. Have to remember to put a ground wire from the audio ground area to the DC jack ground (it’s still on my workbench and not boxed). Case in point: RTFM.

Negative — still weird voltages off the voltage regulator. Original one doesn’t work. The one Robert sent works, but outputs 1.3v ish and the regulator feels like the surface of the sun. It means the regulator is dissipating A LOT of current somehow. Unsure how to tackle this. I don’t even feel this much heat off a voltage regulator in one of Sushibox/C2C nixie power supply. I might need to find a cheap little module to create a stable 3.3V off the dc jack from the internets.
 
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pbrommer said:
Update:
Positives — voltages are better by the TL072. Nothing weird happening. Have to remember to put a ground wire from the audio ground area to the DC jack ground (it’s still on my workbench and not boxed). Case in point: RTFM.

Negative — still weird voltages off the voltage regulator. Original one doesn’t work. The one Robert sent works, but outputs 1.3v ish and the regulator feels like the surface of the sun. It means the regulator is dissipating A LOT of current somehow. Unsure how to tackle this. I don’t even feel this much heat off a voltage regulator in one of Sushibox/C2C nixie power supply. I might need to find a cheap little module to create a stable 3.3V off the dc jack from the internets.
Click to expand...
What orientation do you have your voltage regulator in? Can you post a picture?
 
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