Buffer for muzzle - where to input?

zeropluszero

Active member
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This is potentially more of a sanity check than anything else. I'm building a muzzle, and I'm using a basic relay, as well as a simple jfet buffer for what I hope is the input. I heard this circuit likes a buffered input so I figured internally would be good.
It's just occurred to me that the input for this circuit is actually the side Jack if I'm planning to use this in 4 cable method..so the buffer on the input needs to be between the side chain input and the relay, do I have that right?
And if I took it out of 4cable, say if I wanted to just use two cables, I would use the top jacks, and I would in this case lose the buffer, which I'm sure is fine. Or would I use the two side jacks and not the top jacks?

I should probably get some sleep.
Just so everyone knows, it's smart to attach the footswitch to the relay before you solder the relay board to the PCB using resistor wires. If I haven't broken a connection on this project, between the offboard switch, relocated led and this other stuff I'm jamming in it it will be a miracle.
 
Someone correct me if I’m wrong here but technically I believe the muzzle already has an input buffer
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and that “feeds” a “buffered” signal to the key when side chain isn’t used, so I think you could put a buffer on the key/ side chain input but I have no Idea how that will interact with the circuit when the side chain isn’t in use. And a buffer would probably only be relevant on the key input if it only sees a signal directly from the guitar without any other circuits in between or a long cable run. At least that’s how I understand it. One concern I would have (probably just being extra paranoid here) is you are not filtering the power to that buffer you are just tapping the 9v jack, Worse case scenario you cook the 4301and that’s a bad day right there.

It’s probably a reasonable gamble but for what it’s worth in my opinion you are gambling with an expensive hard to find IC if it’s a real 4301. Which at first glance appears to be. (Good find!)
 
I had also suspected that there would already be a buffer....sorry my schematic reading isn't good enough to recognise one when I see it.

Even better I'll just pull it entirely. 👍
 
I didn't want to build the muzzle unless I could find the chip and it had been out of stock for this site for months. Found one and ordered all my parts, by the time the Tayda order rocked up this week, Robert had the retrofit back in stock 🥲
 
ok, so after fiddling with this again, i have a new issue, but im hoping this one isnt too hard.
I've got the muzzle working after sorting out a wiring issue, I had thought that the switched tip was going to ground on the jack, but its to a different pin - fixed that, and now the gate is gating in 4cable and 2cable method - great.
only thing is, the LED is not working when the gate is gating - and when the LED is lit, the effect appears to be off - surely some sort of switching issue, maybe because I have the relay bypass in there?
when the LED is lit - if i play the light changes from red to green and when i stop it goes to red again - so its reading from the input, its just reversed, since the effect isnt working when the LED is also lit.
do I need to connect the LED to the bypass somewhere? I note the bypass module has A & K markers on the back of the transistor?
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Have you tried jumping the pads on the muzzle pcb to bypass the switch entirely ( like you would for testing and verification of the circuit out of the enclosure before you did any off board wiring? I would verify the circuit is operating as designed before worrying about the relay board. If the circuit operates as designed then start looking at the relay board and how you have it connected.
 
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