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Had to ask about the rectifiers as some older Russian 5Y3 were essentially rebadged 5AR4 seeing your filament voltages up, but not super high says you could be safe losing a bit on the primary. Doesn’t look like you have any more higher taps that would essentially bring it down. Although you...

Very interesting! Kind of a take on the Red Llama/Anderton Tube Sound Fuzz/EH hot tubes… except with more cascading stages.

What voltages are you getting on all taps(filaments included)? What kind of rectifier tube are you using? Country of origin? Are there multiple primary voltage taps?

You can try an audio probe to trace the signal. I use a looper pedal as my tone generator, and my audio probe is simply a guitar cable plugged into a mini amp, and the “probe” end, I clip the ground to pedal ground, and use a large capacitor (.68u, but anything would likely work) with one end...

I’m a big proponent of saying that the output transformer in amps that are pushed hard is one of the biggest factors in tone. That said, I’ve had good luck with Heyboer transformers in the past… and looking at their site they cite Mojo as the place to buy them… yet on mojo’s site, they only...

And at that I STRONGLY recommend a set of center drills vs just using a smaller twist drill bit. Twist drills can flex and runout, center drills are much larger diameter up until the point which is of size, and leaves a slightly countersunk hole.

I found that following the center punch mark with a center drill hole, then sizing with a Christmas tree bit helps a lot. I’m also clamping into a vice and using a drill press so I feel any errors are likely layout errors in my case

Likely just one of the many reasons modulation pedals were always significantly more expensive than dirt pedals (at least back in the 70s and 80s- before the whole “boutique” thing skewed prices of everything)

I got 2 notifications over the past 2 days (yes I always seem to mess up on an order and have to do a follow up). Neither requested this documentation though.

Is it possible that you got the LED leads reversed?

In first with this request (although no huge rush, only ordered the board today, but still like to order/pick parts in advance) Chili Dog Overdrive - drill template, schematics, BOM Thanks in advance!

How could anyone forget Cliff!? https://tenor.com/bm3P0.gif Oh. Different Cliff!

Not sure where to get in large quantities, but here are 2 sources (never bought from either, but they’ve been around long time and I’ve never heard bad about them)...

I couldn’t agree more! I’ve seen Switchcraft fail before, so I always pre-tin and check before using. But I’ll say the failure rate is pretty low from my experience. Now these knockoffs I tried, all 6 failed!

I’ve seen some of these that were so bad the switch failed after the first use. Since then I only ever use Switchcraft brand… but the cost is so high that I only use them when I absolutely need to.

I used this one,, unless you are looking for a different color, then I’m probably not much help https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-on-with-lever-handles.html

DC on the output leads me to think some lead shorting to output or a shorted blocking cap Also curious from the pic- the big electrolytic cap close to the speed knob- is that just the board I’m seeing around it or did that cap leak out the magic schmoo that makes it work?

I would think a compressor would be next to useless with the extremely short decay of a banjo. octave could be cool, though!

Maybe try reflowing the solder, especially around those components. Sounds like you are touching them they are making contact, but when not they don’t.

How low is your output? Are you able to at least get unity gain (same volume as bypassed)