Search results

Smd is a rabbit hole Im currently exploring. You can use easyeda online which syncs with jlcpcb so you can order your pick n place right from the browser window... So I hear, I'm yet to do it as I can't seem to find smd MPSA12s.

Another vote for jlcpcb. I use them for my commercial builds and have never once had a problem and the quality is fantastic, even on the cheaper specs.

http://guitarkitbuilder.com/pedal-builders-vector-art-pack/

The original only uses 100nf caps. No 47n anywhere.

What about rubber feet like on a crybaby? Just put 2 on one end.

Gonna need some photos of what you've built man. The cap values in the build doc/PCB are right but whether you've put the right ones on the board is something we can't really see.

It looks like if you remove/jumper r13, r14, d2 you wouldn't have the always on indicator light. Is that correct or is it d1, r11, and r12 you'd omit?

Probably worth more now than when you bought it.

You can literally solder a 25pf cap to the resistors legs so they're in parallel. 1 leg each side. Just Google images for 'treble bleed' and you'll see.

Yeah man, much better. Maybe make the readout slightly larger? Sorry to compare but I'm so used to seeing trancecats and I their readout formatting is a bit clearer but your functionality is better.

Sorry I wasn't paying attention, 4.7k/47nf was my test. Typical tubescreamer stuff :)

I'm not sure it's accurate. I ran a test of 47k/47nf on yours and trancecat. Trance showed a 720hz cutoff (where it should be) and yours showed 846569hz. If I put in 47uf I get 846hz, which is closer but obviously not the right info.

Nice. One thing though, could you change the formatting of the hz readout into hz, khz, MHz etc? That'd make it much easier to read. I've been using the trancecat one for years but I like the implementation of the units on yours, nice touch.

Actually I wouldn't worry about it. It's currently filtering off 22.6khz which is way above our hearing and what speakers can reproduce. If you double the resistor to a 30k, you'd need to half the cap value to keep things the same, which would be a 235pf, which you can't get. A 220pf gets you to...

Gotcha thanks. Presumably the 10 band is the same but with a few more stages.

They're the generic transistor which you'll find everywhere. I think they're 2c a piece on Tayda. They do the job. They're my default Q to test a circuit and if you want a different flavour they're easy to swap out. Have fun.

You'll also need to increase the 470p proportionately to keep the filtering in check.

Well, a standard resistor would always be in the circuit. An ldr is 2 parts- the light (led) and the ldr which picks up the light from that led. The light is triggered by a signal, say a guitar input, which causes it to light up which tells the ldr to do something because it picks up the light...

Just wondering is this the same as the mxr 6 band?

Well it's going to be part of a vactrol so I'd rather not guess at it. I was hoping the designer or someone with ldr knowledge could chime in and steer this ship.