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Yeah, I’ve built a couple before with no issues, using the same batch of parts. I’ll try the 100k in place of the 3M3 on bottom right of pcb. The cap is a 100v 3pf. I thought that may be an issue as well and put a 10pf Mlcc just to check. Still a pop. Thank you for your help with this.

Yup. Correct polarity for the tantalum’s. The blue caps are part of a batch of 500. They’re Nichicon UKT’s from Mouser. I’ve used approx 200 of them on other builds without issue. They’re audio grade and read less than 1 ohm ESR. One on of the skeptical buffers, I pulled all the...

The pulldown resistor added to the 3pdt on the input side did help the pop, but it also sucked the life out of the pedal…. So that’s not an option. Here is a picture of the back of one of the pcbs. I don’t see any cold solder joints, nor any debris that could cause an issue. Anyone else?

Tried a 10k from ground to output on the 3pdt. Nothing changed. Added a 10k to input from ground on the 3pdt and it got way better. Pop still there, but much less pronounced. Hopefully I’m on to something….. Also noticed the pulldown resistor on the 3pdt needs to be from middle lug (5) to...

Charge pump is an IC, like the TC1044SCPA, 7660SCPA. It’s the IC on the bottom (IC100), not the TL072 dual opamp. If you’ve got an extra TC1044 and you socketed the IC, I’d try swapping that.

I really hate to do this. I recently had an issue with a TS808 popping, that @music6000 kindly pointed out that I had an incorrect resistor installed. In that thread I had mentioned that I had a Skeptical Buffer doing the same thing. After replacing the usual suspects for leaky caps (all...

Very true. Thank you very much. :)

You hit the nail on the head for the TS! Of course, I dive into the Skeptical Buffer, replace every component and bypass the deep dive on the TS (the build with the available schematic). I’m gonna get that changed out and I’m sure it’ll take care of the issue. It was minor in the TS. The...

Nope, just my Rockerverb. I could try the TH30, I suppose. I’ve tried it through my RV with other TS808’s without issue.

Ya know, that’s one thing I didn’t check on the TS808. You could be right on that one. My eye sight is certainly not what it once was. The Skeptical Buffer is the one that I removed all components and reinstalled. I’ll report back tonight. Thank you! :)

While I am using the less desirable leaf spring variety, I did replace both the opamp and charge pump as well as the sockets to no avail. I replaced everything on the pcb one by one, after replacing the usual suspects. I went a little crazy on this one…..

Yup, reflowed everything. Even using a flux pen, just in case. After rebuilding the SB one component at a time, I think I’m going to put both pcbs in a box for a while. Maybe come back to them at a later date. I wonder if a damaged trace could cause switch pop -but only when the LED...

That’s the weird thing. Both were built within a week or two of each other. Roughly same batch of all components. I typically purchase large orders at a time. Maybe a dozen other pedals built between the two with no issues whatsoever. Also, it may be worth it to point out that I typically...

Here’s another stumper. I have one more pcb doing the same thing, this time a Skeptical Buffer. Again, I’ve built a few of these with no issues at all. Started off doing the same troubleshooting as above. I ended up getting so frustrated tonight, that I took my time replacing every single...

I’ll give that a shot!

It’s the Little Green Scream Machine. I’m sure hundreds of these have been built without popping, I can claim a handful of them. I just haven’t found an explanation as to why it will pop when an LED is in on one build and not the others. I believe I’ve eliminated cold solder joints, leaky...

No worries. I certainly appreciate the help! I did try another LED, just in case. Same thing. I feel like I’ve tried everything. The weird thing is that I’ve built the same pcb, maybe a dozen times. Using the same batch of components from Mouser (resistors from Tayda), without an issue...

So, I’ve been scouring for the last couple days, read the AMZ article and combed through the forums. Found a lot of helpful tips and suggestions for solving this. My question is, what could cause switch pop when LED is engaged in a particular TS (the LGSM pcb) build, when all others have been...

Great diagram. Although, you may want to throw a CLR in there :) You could also just use the fixed +9v.

Great looking pedal, inside and out!