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Did you solder the FV-1 yourself? Have you checked voltages to the ICs. If so what results did you get? Do you have an audio probe? If not you will likely need one.

Looking at what Robert has posted it looks as if that trace goes to the other end of that resistor, not the close one. That will be why there is no connection between the transistor and the closest leg of the resistor - there is not supposed to be.

Your voltages look good. Your soldering is not the worst. I would try swapping out IC1 for another one if you have it- or swap IC1 and IC 2 over if you haven't. Also, test the gain pot to make sure you are getting a full sweep of resistance from 0 to 1M. If that pot is faulty you could get...

What voltages are you getting on each of the IC pins?

If you suspect a switching FET you can temporarily short the source and drain. If the signal goes through after that then replace it.

I am sure it is doable (I mean, anything can be repaired). It will not be an easy task though. The first thing to do is to measure the voltages on the ICs and see if they are close to what the datasheets say they should be. If your supply voltages check out then you are going to need to trace...

Looking at the soldering on the switch PCB I am surprised that the effect works either. Resolder that and you should be fine. Just a tip is that those switches are easy to damage with too much heat. Make sure you have a nice hot iron so you can get in and out quickly, and take a break between...

Yep, at first glance those diodes all look OK. I would not be rushing to replace them. I assume you have fixed the problem with the Q3 connection? First thing is does the direct/clean sound work?

I have recently built one of these and should be able to give you some help. Mine is on my pedalboard though and I need it tomorrow. After that though I can take it off the board for a bit. One thing I do notice from your video is that you are playing chords into it. That will never work...

What you have used on the back of the pots is perfect. That pin you are talking about is a locator pin. Some people will drill a small hole where the pin goes (often it does not need to go all the way through the case). The pin sits in the hole and means that the pot cannot rotate even if the...

OK. 2 questions 1. Do you have anything insulating the backs of the pots, especially the pot that hovers over the PCB? If not that is common failure point - the back of the pot shorts out something on the board. Electrical tape by itself doesn't work either. I know from experience that the...

Nope. carlinb17 is right. The orange wire on the output jack is soldered to the ring, not the tip. You are correct that the lug on the slant is for the shield/ground. If you look, one orange wire is on the clockwise lug from there, the other is on the anti-clockwise lug from there. from...

The behaviour of the power supply suggests a short somewhere in the pedal - the short is drawing to much current and the supply is shutting down as a protection. Did you ever go back and measure the power jack again? Your earlier post had the +ve lead 9V lower than the -ve lead, which is...

With power on, and the black lead of your multimeter on the - wire from the jack, and the red lead on the + wire from the jack what is the reading?

+ve lead: ~+3.5v -ve lead: ~+12.5v Something is very not right here. Your -ve lead should be connected directly to the case and so you should be getting 0v here. The +ve lead should then be reading about 9V

Yep, that looks better. They would probably work facing the same way (FETS are usually pretty symmetrical) but turning them backwards is technically correct. Reading the first post it seems as if the only problem with functionality you are having is with the LED? You can think of the LED as...

Looks as if NTE123 would probably work for Q1, the same way around. It won't work for Q2 or Q3 - they are FETs whereas NTE123 is a NPN.

What type of transistors are they (numerical code)? Also, problems with the LED may well be the switch - they are pretty sensitive to heat so too much time soldering can be enough to damage them. I always make sure I have spares in case.

You won't get audio signal across the bias trimmer unless the transistor is properly biassed. Measure the voltage at the collector with your multimeter and adjust the trimmer until it is somewhere in the 4.5 - 6.5 V range (depends on taste). If you aren't getting any signal across there than...

OK, by the look of it Q2 collector should be biased to between about 4.5V and 6.5V with the sundial pot set to minimum. Looking at the above, your bias is set very low. Have you tried to bias it?