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With no audio, what voltages do you get at R4/R20 with the mix pot in middle, one end, other end. Same for R19/R21 Do you get the effected audio at IC1.1?

My memory of BBD chorusing is that there is a very narrow band on the trimpot that will give you anything.

That is indeed promising

It's either a faulty EEPROM or the connections from teh FV-1 to the EEPROM Mix and vol should indeed be working as expected with the internal programs. If they are not then that is a problem, but a separate problem

Pins 16-18 of the FV-1 should also measure a different combination of voltages with every different position of the rotary switch (will count up in binary). Each effect position should have an audible difference though if you are listening rather than measuring voltages.

If you are worried about the mode switch test it's function first. You have the internal sounds working. The mode switch will switch through them the same way as it switches through the external ones. If you don't get the correct sounds in the correct order then the switch will be the...

I do know that the figures in the datasheets for minimum hfe are almost identical for both transistors. Not sure about what the averages for each are though

Not an expert on this, but Google says that 2n2222a is a bit higher gain than 2n2222. I am guessing that could mean potentially that a 2n2222a could send the whole lot over the top at really high settings?

I am not an expert on tube amps. Not even a little bit. I do know that speaker polarity won't matter though. Main thing with polarity is that if you wire up 2 with different polarity then they will cancel rather than reinforce

I don't suppose you happen to have another FV-1 based board or pedal lying around? If so you can swap the EEPROM in and see what happens - to test a new EEPROM you will need to have R5 connected to 3.3V again. Personally on my Arachnid build once I lifted R5 I soldered it to a switch with 0v...

The solder on your EEPROM socket looks good, but I would reflow it anyway just in case. You were measuring correct voltages on it before. That is a good sign. I do know from experience though that the connections from the FV-1 to the EEPROM can be good enough for a multimeter to say that...

To have audio on IC1 pin 14 but not at pin 28 of the FV-1 I am guessing means that you are getting the clean signal through to there. If you are getting audio to pin 1 of the FV-1 then you should get audio out at pin 28 as long as everything connected to the FV-1 is soldered correctly. I would...

pin 13 should not be sitting at 0v. It is tied to 3.3v through R5 and that pin being high is what makes it use the external EEPROM, with it low it uses the internal programs. If it actually connected to ground rather than not connected to anything, then you should still be hearing an output...

It looks as if the central pin on the 8 way switch is badly soldered. It also looks as if one of the pins on that switch is not soldered at all - in fact it looks as if you may have lifted the pad - hard to tell in the photo though. That shouldn't stop power getting to the FV-1, but will...

You mentioned you were sucking out solder. That is a whole different technique. I must admit I am not necessarily the best at that and so I do find I have to do it in short stints and let it cool between. No matter how tempting it is to just do a bit more and get rid of that last bit right...

Putting my hand up too as someone who had a "broken" pedal that had the jacks in the wrong plugs. With the sockets wired the way you have had them, the tip would be correct. The tip would be shorted to ground when there is no plug inserted, but as soon as you insert a plug then it would lift...

With the volume at the same level as when it is bypassed?

Also on those jacks one side is usually switched and disconnects when there is a plug inserted. You need to make sure you get the side that is connected all the time.

Also report what you are hearing with the mix pot fully the other way (Low/down)

It looks to me as if you need more solder on the switch pins - that won't make a scrap of difference to output volume though. The visible pots don't have anything insulating the backs. Do you have anything on the backs of the pots we can't see to prevent them shorting out the board?