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I think it's just pinch harmonics

Yesterday morning there was a smashed frog on our road that I had to disallow our dog from eating. This morning, this little box turtle was having the meal of the month. Funny part is we have a dozen or so vultures that roost in an old pine across the street. Somehow this little guy beat them...

The NatSemi logo on the Jameco DIP8 🤣

Though this would make the microXLR a NotaDIöut

Or at least 3 Mouser BOM links for each project. Each BOM having 3 levels of cork sniffery. Updated constantly as EOL and inventory changes please. I'm down for a singular hooker and also blow as well.

Some fun could be had with swapping the deep switch and R24 for a lot and minimum resistance. Or even an 101 switch and 2 resistors. But if you're modding an existing boxes build that may be out of the question. Maybe flipping proportions of R23 and R24 and increasing them? Turn deep into...

Do you want to cut it earlier in the circuit, resulting in less harmonics? What tuning are you, namely lowest note?

Been doing something similar. Reverse polarity is RED though. DANGER! I have a Epson label maker that will print on heat shrink for cable labeling. It would be unethical to use it for personal cables but maybe, just maybe...

It's a buffah.

Do you have 3.3v on pin 8 of the eeprom socket? I feel like there's been a history of those regs being produced with inverted pinout.

Fairly certain all the Jameco ones were fakes. They also keep reupping the stock. The LT1008 is an easily obtainable sub, though a bit pricey. Most tight low end in my shoot out. Of course, that's all subjective.

Good shop. Done several orders with them. Their $1 deals can be quite good.

Is this a production pedal? 2hat is that top IC? If it's a charge pump, need to check the voltage out of it. I'd also check the poorly soldered diodes. Not sure which one is polarity protection Make sure the jacks aren't twisted(looks like the out jack is) and grounding out. Also make sure...

If you're not using the inserts, build the pad on TRS plugs and stickem in the inserts.

Hmmm You need a T pad Assuming 600 ohm output on the groups, cause I have no idea

https://crookwood.com/blog/dealing-with-unbalanced-gear-in-the-studio/ I suspect your mixer is hard balanced unless it has transformers on the group outs. Do the group outs have inserts? Are they a single TRS for both send and return?

Only if you can get pots with near matched wafers. Definitely want a quality 5% 9mm, not a 20% 16mm. On the higher end, a dual rotary with matched resistors.

I was wondering about a 2 gain stage jumper. A switch to bypass 2 stages that is.

Pokey bits into the back of the pot condom that pierce once the pots are tightened down? Just loosen the pot nuts and see if it improves. Maybe jiggling the PCB a bit.

I think this was only ever offered as an etch/diy PCB. Did you use an LED and a NSL-32? Not sure what you mean by "led parallel to the vactrol". Or did you just insert a led parallel to see? D1 should be changing luminosity when playing... Others reported good luck with a LDR with 1meg Rdark...