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I doubt that would make a difference. If you found a 10K where there was supposed to be a 1M, then I'd say replace it, but I don't see that as your problem.

Hmmmm, Have you checked your resistor values?

Ok, so thanks to @BuddytheReow, I'll never forget which leg of the LED goes in the A hole, but I'm wondering if anybody has a trick to remember which leg of the DC power jack is positive and which one is switched for the battery connection -- I have to look that one up every time.

Did you ever try swapping out the TL072? I just built a pedal with a couple of screechy TL072s -- swapped them out, and everything works fine now.

I think this is the clearest view (sort of), but I think there is some confusion about what is Q1 and Q2. When I first read the schematic, I was assuming that Q1 was the closest one in this picture, but that appears to be the one he turned around and said it was Q2. If that is Q2, its base...

I know that sounds complicated, but if you trace the circuit back to the schematic, you should see what I'm talking about.

Yeah, this is where I'm getting confused. I had originally thought that what you have labeled as Q2 was actually Q1 based on its connection to C2 and R1, but I see where the confusion is now since its collector is connected to the B10K pot, which is where the collector of Q2 should be...

Wait, which one did you turn around. The one that looks like you turned around is the one that I was thinking was Q1 from your original post.

Ok, I think you just flipped the wiring from the way you had it wired before. I'm struggling to follow what is happening on the right side of the switch. I know there are a dozen ways to wire a bypass switch, but the easiest one for me to wrap my mind around is this one...

Yeah, that means your input is shorting to ground. And I'm all kinds of confused about the way you have the foot switched wired now. I had just wrapped my mind around how you had it wired before. I'm going to have to study this for a minute...

Yeah, that should be correct.

Yeah, as long as it's been a few minutes you should be good. I still drop a low value resistor across the leads just to be safe, or I read the voltage with my DMM -- better safe than sorry. And no, the value doesn't matter too much -- you just don't want to short a fully charged cap.

That looks fantastic. The knobs and graphics really work well together.

Based on the data sheet I'm looking at, it looks like Q1 is in backwards. EDIT: With the flat side facing toward you the pins from left to right should be ECB. https://my.centralsemi.com/datasheets/LSSGP072.PDF

I just finished boxing up my XC Phase, and it works perfect and sounds fantastic. However, when I switch between 4 stages and 2 stages I get a loud pop. Is this normal, or do I have a problem?

Yeah, that's my guess. It looks like a silicone fuzz with a tone stack.

Just make sure you discharge that big cap in there before you poke around too much. If you leave it unplugged long enough it will discharge on its own, but it's always a good idea to connect a resistor across the leads for a few seconds before poking around in there. Don't use a screwdriver or...

Ok, I think I'm starting to understand the foot switch. From what I can tell, the center lug of the right side of the foots switch goes to the tip of the output jack. the center lug in the middle of the switch goes to the tip of the input jack, so when the switch is thrown to the top half, the...

Exactly why I asked about the foot switch wiring. I can't tell, but I think that when you engage the foot switch, you're dumping the signal to ground???

Assuming that leg 1 of the pot is ground, then I think it's correct, but again a schematic would be helpful.