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I still can’t figure out what’s wrong with this thing.

I am getting continuity between these. Any suggestions for what to try next?

So, do I need to run jumper wires to get this to work? Or do I need a new switch daughter board?

I appreciate that. It’s not making much sense to me at the moment, I’ll have to look at it again tomorrow.

I’m not getting any continuity between pads C and D with the switch active. With the switch bypassed, I don’t seem to be getting continuity between A-F or B-C. I think all the numerical pads check out, though.

So with the pins on the switch, should ALL the middle row have continuity with ALL the bottom row, and same with the top row, when switched, or just the ones in line with each other? I’m getting continuity with each pin in line vertically, but not necessarily say if I try the far left pin with...

Oh i forgot to mention, I’ve tried my MXR ISO Brick Power Supply, and a generic 9v 1amp ac/dc adapter.

I assume so, that’s what it says on the case, and I got it from AES… Is there something I can do to check it?

The voltages check out, 9v at V+ and 254v at cathode of D2. Tube board is a 12ax7 board. Here’s more pics. Couple more pics…

So I recently bought and built both a Diplomat and a King Nothing. The Diplomat works great, but the King Nothing does not. I get a signal going through it when it’s not active, but if I stomp the switch, the sound cuts out and the LED doesn’t turn on. I can’t figure out what I’ve done wrong...

Thanks y’all! It was a major chore removing the powder coating and getting the bare steel looking the way I wanted it. I had to use a brass brush on my angle grinder, and then I tried a flap disc, which wasn’t doing what I wanted, so I went with a rotary sander and that did it. I had to be real...

I built one of these a couple months ago, and used a different enclosure. Last week I removed the grey powder coating and painted the base black. I need to get a silhouette or something to make some nice vinyl decals.