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Nice work, yeah I think that would work!

Man this is a really interesting brain workout, trying to figure out how I would do it. Hopefully Robert can tell us the answer because it sounds like he has it figured out. If I understood correctly, this ugly Paint diagram is basically what you want to switch between? The Deflector being...

The thing that has stopped me from building any combo pedals is that if I build them separately, I could effectively use them as a combo (just put them next to each other) or not as I feel like. So the obvious answer here to me is "why not give it a try if you have reverb/delay pedals already"...

To expand on this, the letters come from (A)node and Cathode (spelled with a K, possibly due to coming from a Greek word which starts with a K, and to distinguish from caps or collectors which start with a C). To be honest whenever I put in LED's I usually check the LED polarity thread on the...

YMMV, and it does feel like a lot of money. For me, learning some things by independent research and by doing it myself works well. For other things, it doesn't work very well or at all. Music theory is one of those, for some reason it was very hard for me to learn, or maybe rather to find...

There's a new one out, "How to Design and Build Better Guitar Pedals: For Intermediate DIY’ers". It looks pretty interesting, not going to lie, but $125 (with the discount) for 6 hours feels like a lot? I dunno, I'm still considering it. I guess there is a 30 day money back guarantee if you're...

I use red and black like others, green for input and blue for output, and the rest for various other things (jumpers, switches or LED wiring if needed). Reasoning is that I just felt like it.

Ahh, I figured the uniform was a denim west and no pants 🤷‍♂️

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't electrolytic caps polarized most of the time, while MLCC caps for example are non-polarized? Is it a decent rule of thumb that "it doesn't really matter if you switch them in this direction", or could there be instances where it makes a difference?

That's a positive for a lot of people, not a negative. I also for whatever reason used to hate doing the wiring for a 3PDT, but it's not bad once you've done it a few times. It's quite quick and easy.

FWIW I think often the CLR is on the anode side, because if you put it on the cathode and the LED is accidentally grounded from the leg before the CLR, it will burn, because that bypasses the CLR. If you put it on the anode side, the same thing can't really happen, so why not remove that small...

Just to add (while it might have been obvious), the SW goes to the Current Limiting Resistor, which goes to the LED, which then goes to the 9V supply (so the same place the battery + comes from). The power LED is not really a part of the pedal circuit, it's just hanging there by the side to...

FYI I'm sure you figured it out by now, but for anyone else who might wander here (like me) the schematic says the serial/parallel only works in neck position due to how it's wired. Pickup switching in series mode doesn't make much sense because I don't think it matters which is first. Or maybe...

Don't do anything drastic! All of that pent up gonk energy releasing at once could have catastrophic consequences!

Is that where you start thinking differently once you join a protestant church? Sorry, sorry, I'll walk myself out.

What 386 are you using? I would first attribute the weird compression sound to those. LM386N-4 seems to work well. Edit: The JRC386D would probably be the best if you can get those.

Nice build, I'm a fan of those aluminum knnobs and would use some if I wasn't so cheap! I would also be interested in the gerbers.

Hey, I buy from PPCB directly! I haven't done the exact math, but I'm pretty sure it still comes out a little cheaper to use PPCB + Tayda than Musikding. ...I should probably do the math though.

I think flat out making up some bullshit would be worse, there could in theory be some point to it for someone who has gotten so deep into the miniscule details of electronics that they've lost sight of what actually matters or not. But I would probably rather have a pedal designed by someone...

What are the chances that they actually did consider what kind of brass knobs would in theory be minimally better, or alternatively did they just make some shit up to sell pedals?