Search results

Hmm idk how that board works since there’s no docs. But since there’s no resistor on the stomp/led board, I guess you still need the resistor in R6 of the RangeFinder. But other than that I don’t know how it’s configured, you could put up pictures if you want me to try to trace the patterns to...

I would guess the main things is that R3 and C3 make a bass cut filter at 723hz. Increase C3 will lower that to allow more bass through.

Ah.. yeah that’s typically the resistor for the LED. My initial plan was to use a relay bypass pcb with a nice soft switch. My own pcb design that functions the same as the PPCB one, but fits 1590B a little better, and I wrote my own code for. But my relay pcb doesn’t have a protection diode...

The volume pot performs this same function already at the output. Basically, caps block DC voltage, but they aren’t perfect at it. So a little DC leaks through and can accumulate at the input pin. Then, when you switch the effect on/off, there is a jump in DC voltage. The bleed resistor from...

Nice. Couple of things stand out to me Transistors come in difference pinouts, and I don’t see a note about which transistor you’re using to be able to check those pins are connected right. You should be able to modify the pin spacing of the transistors in the software to line up with the...

Here's my Range Finder build. I love the 8-way switch to tune the filter. The stock RM cap (position 2 on this switch) is quite thin, and I haven't enjoyed it into dirt pedals, but I've like 3-4 more. 5-6 sound cool clean, not full range transparent but a warm mid-focused sound. Initially I...

I build 1590B with side jacks any time I can. I get the popularity of 125B with top but it’s just personal preference. The 1590B size looks “right” to me. The side jacks feel less crowded with the power. I even buy PPCB boards and use wire to attach the pots so I can shift the pcb up for 1590B...

Yep your threads were one of the inspirations I listed, good stuff. I like the idea of testing out how close to the sound of original analog bbd effects this type of method can achieve.

Sweet. Does R1A affect the EQ? Seems like it would just add some gain, and you could still have the fat sw just by switching C1. I also don’t find the BM to be my favorite, so maybe your take would hit the spot.

Sounds like other people have had volume increase so maybe it’s common within part tolerance. I don’t personally measure resistors when building either. Couldn’t hurt. I do usually look at the stripe code though I guess, it’s good practice learning the color code

All above are good ideas, I'd personally adjust R5 first. Although I am a little surprised, I've built this circuit a few times and never had a volume level increase. And mathmatically, it seems lik it should be very near unity. Did you make any value subs in your build?

I like to add soft clipping diodes on a switch (red or blue LED) to prevent op amp clipping. This has a way of tightening up or focusing the sound (op amp clipping sounds muddy to me). This is messing with a beloved circuit so put it on a switch h so you can compare to classic rat tones.

Adapters are either center positive or center negative. Guitar pedals are standardized to accept center negative. The diode protects the pedal if you accidentally plug in a center positive polarity. But any power supply marketed for guitar pedals will be center negative, I don’t think I’ve ever...

You could just jumper it if you trust yourself to only ever use the correct power supply. Also I think you wouldn’t notice any difference with the 4001. The headroom in this pedal is already limited to 3.3V by the fv-1, so the analog part of the circuit will be way above that even with the...

I built it as described and I still think it’s a nice idea. If I were to do it again I would probably implement the blend knob as described by Chuck - 5k pot for R5 to get between wet and dry. Phaser is already a blended effect - you take the phase modified signal and blend with dry to get the...

Here is my version of the infinite footswitch code. It may be a bit convoluted, since I took the spin semi patch and edited from there. The footswitch should be momentary, wired something like the attached picture. Or, the same tap switch circuit I posted for the tap tempo thread also works.

that’s definitely an option, tap tempo especially takes up a lot of instructions. You’d either have to use a 3.3V micro, or a resistor voltage divider if the micro is 5V. I posted working tap tempo code here (all within the fv1), I’m not sure if many people have seen it...

So have you tried swapping the red & blue OT wires yet? I don't see a comment that you ruled this out, sorry if I missed it. I finished off a build of this someone had started, and this ended up being the issue. I contacted mojotone since there seemed to be some discrepency on which wire goes...

I have a working patch for the footswitch type, I could share if anyone’s interested. The reverb comes from an infinite hold patch + pitch shift patch on the spin semi site. I have pot0 set to control the fade out time she. You release the footswitch. Different project from what DL is sharing...

am I understanding the Clip functions as being so that you can remove what’s being held and latch on the new input? Either controlled by turning the knob, or tilting a footswitch to this pot input?