I’ve never paid any extra fees or costs ordering from Ukraine sellers. Just the cost of parts and shipping. Everything I’ve ordered from sovcom came quick and was exactly as advertised.
You probably already know this but pretty much any of the Russian D9 series diodes work great as replacements for a 1N34A. I use the D9K mostly. They’re cheap and readily available on eBay from sellers in Ukraine.
Here’s the mod for anyone who wants to add the Trem switch to their Moonn Electronics - Space Invader aka Devi Ever Rocket (Vintage Fuzz Master > Soda Meiser) 👾. It’s only a couple trace cuts, some jumpers and a SPDT switch. The mod is just cutting ground to the VFM side but the trem doesn’t...
If nothing else works I’d try checking for continuity between points that are supposed to be connected in the circled area. Idk if it’s really the right way to diagnose it but it worked for me once already when I had no idea what the issue was. It’s frustrating as heck when you know you did...
The switch is technically “backwards” but as you already know will be ok as long as you remember which way is which.
If nothing else works for you try testing for continuity between points with a multimeter in this area of the schematic. It’s what I did and ended up finding the broken trace in...
It doesn’t seem common. I’ve built a bunch of these and the only other one it happened on was the Dirt Dauber. Defective trace after the protection diode so nothing was being powered. So other than these two they’ve all worked perfect and sound great.
These were the two traces on my board that...
Not sure if this could be the issue with how it’s acting but the gate on mine wasn’t working properly and it ended up being a broken trace under the solder mask. The pcb I got actually had two broken traces but once jumpered everything worked properly. It got me to start continuity checking all...
Are the drain voltages really that high? When I max out the trimmers I can only get around 13v. For now I adjusted each one to around 7.5v and it sounds pretty good. Just having a hard time doubting anything you post so figured I should just ask. lol. Thanks.
Amazing work. Paint makers or brushed model paint? Guessing oil based will work better than anything water based for this stuff? Any brands or paint types you recommend? Thanks!
Do it!! I can’t wait to finish mine. I like how you rigged the LED up to float like that. I gotta remember that. Next time if you don’t wanna bolt it on try this epoxy. It works wonders.
Just wondering. What is the benefit of doing this over the stock setup? I understand it’ll have a better sweep overall so mostly wondering about the adding of the resistor.
Finally finished it. Sounds sooo good. Also got some more info about grounding pin 6 of the TAPLFO directly from Tom at Electric Druid. Essentially the Cherry Pie pcb was designed to be used with the TAPLFO 2C which didn’t have a smoothing filter so pin 6 was left unconnected. The TAPLFO 3C and...
I think what he's saying is that the middle position on head 4 is the "bonus".
"ON 1" - regular mode (stock functioning, head 4 switch up, normal loudness)
"ON 2" - bonus mode (head 4 switch in middle position, which would be quieter)
I built one of these last week and it sounds great. This is what I used:
- 5mm yellow diffused LED from Tayda. This particular LED disperses the light really well from the top and all sides - better than others I’ve tried. Just a nicer full glow. They’re great for these kind of effects.
-...
Those are definitely both type 2. I think Tayda only has one Type 1 available right now. It shows blue in the picture but they’re a maroon color and they’re not as good quality as the Dailywell. Had to use two for my PcbMania “Shoeman” PLL clone.
Type 1...