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You can't. The most resistance you'll get by putting two resistors in parallel is the resistance of the lesser of the two. You can change the taper though. Lowering the resistance shouldn't have that much (if any) impact on the volume output--the volume pot is just acting as a voltage...

I think your definition of "technical" is different than mine.

I've been using Tayda solid core occasionally for hooking the pcb to switch. No failures yet. To those who have, are you unboxing and reboxing? For most builds, there's no movement so breakage seems really unlikely. I could see the risk only if I had to pull everything out.

I use a ruler and measure the distance between the pots/switches then make my own template.

What kind of DC jack is that? I haven't seen one like it. Reason I ask is that some folks have had issues because the jack's outer ring makes contact with enclosure (i.e. not negative center).

I've used that PCB before, and you're right--it needs you to jumper the CLR+LED.

Was this due to covid or because half our state was on fire?

Start by measuring at the ins and outs of all the components along this path. At the start it should pretty much match the input signal--at some point you'll read a point where it doesn't, which will give you more clue as to which part of the circuit is misbehaving.

how do you connect phone to pedal? I just use audio--no oscilloscope necessary. What oscilloscope do you use?

Audio probe is helpful here. Do you have a looper pedal? If so capture a riff and put in on repeat into the pedal. Then start probing. You'll have to start tracing the audio path from the input to the point where it gets weak. If you don't have a probe they're dirt simple to build.

How legit is the 2n5457? Also, do you have something protecting the middle pot from contacting the PCB?

all in good fun

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/BrownBetty-PedalPCB.pdf

Oh, that's different than the one I have (I have Revision I). Gotta grab em all.

I don't think so. DIST just sets the feedback resistance for the non-inverting op-amp gain. Sounds likely. I'm guessing the red filter is to reject radio interference?

mn3007 is a bucket brigade--I would consider this analog, not digital. I think you'd want two status leds, one for delay and one for distortion. And two switches to control them independently. Then you're basically gonna be laid out like any combo pedal (king of tone, pro-10, sproing deluxe...

This can help you with wiring a charge pump. Mounted to your switch then you can tap the -9V pad for your circuit. 3PDT Charge Pump Board - PedalPCB.com

What circuit are you working with? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, but is it how to do something like this? Positive Power for the PNP Fuzzface (muzique.com)

I found this really interesting article on the subject: https://therepaircafe.wordpress.com/2021/03/20/in-defense-of-the-lm358/ There's also a video linked there that shows how to test your IC with either scope or meter.

you don't have to--the circuit does (hence the current draw)