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Watts law: volts x amps = watts. 24vdc x 2A (2000ma)= 48 watts. That'll getcha like 2/3 of the way here. Not quite enough. PD USB type C adapters are plentiful: lots of phones these days use 65 watt charging.

Curtis Yarvin. Basically.

Cap size is gonna depend on dielectric as well. Like others said: getting up to 220nf in a compact package is easy with PET caps. I kinda like going through mouser and using the filters to find what parts will fit my particular use case. Relatively compact PET caps can be found up to about...

Weird, grand total on my JLCPCB is like 40 bucks for 5 boards. UPS shipping is like 23, customs is like 10.80. Still nearly twice the cost of the boards. Crazy.

Good to know! Still learning. Yeah, tariffs have struck PCB fabrication. Crossing my fingers that they'll drop those soon. Oshpark is good too...they're who I'll be using in the near future. I did end up figuring out that I dropped the drill file the backup folder accidently. I cleaned up...

Lemmie see what I did wrong there. I'll fix.

Yessir...the main folder is where the gerbers are. The backups are from various edits over time...you can go ahead and delete that folder if you want, it shouldn't make a difference.

A'ite homies: Here's the link. Its taken me a while to get there. I've included all the kicad saved files as well, so y'all can add, edit, to your hearts content. I've completed my task: it is now open for community edits and changes. I've got the BOM, drill files, and gerbers in the link...

Boy howdy. Anybody else decide earlier this year to bite the bullet and put a few bigger tool purchases on credit? Fuckin...I can pay down a 20+% APR far easier than 145% upfront.

Also: I'd say that yellow fasel is absolutely salvageable. Just need to get a bit of magnet wire, twist the end together with the one there, solder, insulate (nylon/kapton/polyamide tape is nice and thin and would do the trick), then wrap around the post, solder, and you're good. Like so:

In my experience...well, it all depends. Inductance is proportional to the square of the number of turns. This is how I've made small adjustments while winding my own cores, but there are other factors to consider as well. The clamping pressure with which the cores are held together will...

That's generally been the case with stock mounts for me too; I've collected a few that work well in certain situations, but for the most part moving forward I'll be making mine with custom mounts. The mounts for these, especially the pot cores, can get real pricy real quick. I'm having to get...

Another update: Holy hell. Just got a pound of some very, very fine Litz wire in the mail from John @ https://kc9on.com/. Good dude, cool store, recommended! I'm in the process of printing up a spool holder for this thing: after that, I'll be winding, assembling, and testing a few 1811Ps...

Honestly: my recommendation would be to take that 38awg you have and...very...carefully...under a magnifying glass with a fine tip....try to extend the ends of the wire. Its definitely doable. If you can pull it off, it'll be wayyyy easier than re-winding the core. Just be very careful, don't...

Its likely an MnZn ferrite, TDK's n30 or n48 is probably a good place to start. ~14mm diameter. You'll have a tough time tracking down the exact specs, dunlop is gonna keep a tight lock on that info. That said...toroids are tricky. Its possible to wind one for a wah by hand, but it's a bear...

I highly recommend building out the fuzz. I dig it. Not super wooly, but damn. I love it. Plugged in, everything is good! But...well... Ok. Reverse sweep is garbage. Volume control is...meh. I'm thinking one of those is gonna need to be swapped with an external gain pot for the fuzz...

Maybe the TS100 type? Some neat soldering irons that run on USB-C PD. I've got one that's a decent backup to my induction Hakko setup. Yeah, My shit is strut.

25w will do a lot. Probably want to stick to leaded solder. 63/37 would be the ticket. Get a few different tip sizes too. Larger tips=more surface area=faster heat transfer. Sometimes you need a larger tip, though typically my preference is around a 1.6mm chisel for 90% of work.

Hmm. I do like these ideas. Its in keeping with my tendency towards making pedals all war torn and battle worn. Plus...less work on my end. I'm real bad at making things look pretty. Don't have the patience for perfection. Thinking since this is already pretty far outside a "collectors...

Aite. So, I'm in the process of ruining a ruined old pedal. I picked this guy up. May have over paid, now that I see the thing. Somebody on reverb had an old Wau Wau Fuzz *way* below market price. The only caveat? It looks like it's been out in a damp shed for a few decades...