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You know when you think something is going to look great after imagining what it could look like and then it's disappointing? That's this. Thanks JB weld!

Honestly, don't know. Flying leads, solid grounding, shielded cable, and grid stoppers?

Welcome. Let's see what we can figure out. We know that you have good voltage from the smps -- 250v. Good start so far. What will help is if you can SAFELY measure the pins of the tube. I'm not sure on the layout which is which, but we should see this: Pins 1 and 6: tube plates, probably...

It lives! It doesn't squeal, whine, or hum! 3+ days off and on over these snow days (education has plusses and minuses) and finally sussed it out. Sushibox SmPS for plates (220, which is lower but fine) and a separate 12vdc supply for filaments and the Arduino for switching and LCD screen 3...

You're convincing me more and more to order the board and LFO chips from ElectricDruid. Weird is good.

True, but I like the sloped look. Breaks up the Hammond monotony. :)

I meant 3 to 4 foot switches. Sorry for the 3/4 -- that's how I write 3 or 4 in my notes.

Where did you get the enclosure? I'm looking for something for a 3/4 button foot switch. Thanks.

Just curious if there is a project similar to the Zoom Pd-01. Not that I don't like mine: but maybe there's something similar in a bit smaller form or that I can tweak a bit. Thanks for the response.

Very cool and useful. Now I don't have to go digging into the bowels of the internet for the calculator (was it Analog Alchemy?). I used another one for a Ge/Si switchable one I have, which I need to go back and fix. :)

I got mine working with two separate boards, two separate on/off stomps, a six way toggle for clipping for the tube screamer, and series/parallel. BUT, the series/parallel works, cuts the gain, but isn't super blendable and oscillates in one setting - so if you can figure that out better than...

Groovy

Cool. Perhaps after you rebuild it and get it running, we might be able to find the issue with the first one. Then, Stereo BE!

That is the correct pinout. 4 and 5 are NOT connected when you power the tube with 12.6vdc/vac. They ARE connected if you use 6.3 vdc/vac. In this pedal, it's using 12vdc, so no connection to pin 9 and 4 and 5 should not beep if you check continuity between them. I think Sushi said connect the...

If I read that pin out right, that should be pin 7 of the second tube, exactly where the drop of volume is happening. Check for continuity from the board to the pins of the socket on the other side and even the tube pin. Those should all connect back to the 220k next to the 330k. Maybe check if...

Okay, that's a great start. According to Mr. Sushi :), we have AC going to DC over the UF4007. Voltage drops across the resistors look okay. So now to figure out why there's not 250vdc. Looks like, to me, the issue is in the areas coming off the NE555 - the inductor, those resistors, and the...

I'm not well versed in SMPS, so didn't know there was AC on the 555 side of the UF4007. The more you know.

Okay. Don't pull any resistors or diodes yet! Measure them before you pull them, because then we can diagnose where the problem is. And I'll admit, I read through what you did with the tubes and I assumed you had plugged it in with the daughterboards incorrect. If voltage is good on both sides...

Honest question: Did the drop in volume follow when you switched tubes? If so, then bad tube. If it did, then bad tube. Things to check would be the voltages on both sides of R11 and R12 (the main resistors to the tubes). The two voltages closest to the SushiBox label and the 1n and 470p...

Well, that was interesting. I thought something was up with TL071s, but didn't think much because my brain probably thought TL072. My other thought was that you had a wrong value near the power section, i e a 100k for 10k. Congratulations on getting it working. Now to help others in non-working...