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OK that doesn't make sense... you need to redo your reading. You can't have 9V on both side of R100, good continuity between R100 and R101 but no voltage on either side of R101...

So I would guess that we need to check that you have you voltage correctly set at R100 and R101.. So 9V on R100 and most like like 0V on the other pin of R100 right ? I would check continuity from R100 to R101 and check for ground continuity on R101...

Just to be clear, I used IC1.3 but that was not accurate... you better use IC1 P3, this way we do not confuse what is meant with what's on the schematic. If you look IC1 is a dual opamp, so it is designated IC1.1 for the first stage andIC1.2 for the second stage, so there isn't really an IC1.3...

Sorry, I mistyped this... I meant what is the voltage on IC1 Pin 3. I understood you had sound on pin 2 of IC1 but not on pin 1 ? So my first thought is do we have VREF on Pin 3 ?

Do you have a voltage reading on IC1.3 ?

I wouldn’t trust that black tape as isolation. Get some proper dust cover… Hopefully the BK50 didn’t short the chip under it !

I read about goop many times, but what exactly is used to goop a board ?

Excellent work ! Creative use of small space ! Love it !

Hey, I'm not one to criticize... I've never solder SMDs, so you're already 2 up on me :D

That's very good work... if I had to guess, you did the left SMD first, I seem to see an improvement just looking at the soldering of the right one !

I've got it also on my DMM, but the only time I used it, it gave me a reading I didn't trust... so, never used it again :D

Nothing special really, we were talking about cheap transistor testers and @fig recommended this; https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07X5YS1JN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And it does resistors and caps…

Yes, I have a tester for the cap. Actually brand new thanks @fig for the reco :) So, I’ll swap the IC next, will socket it too :D We’ll keep you all posted. Thanks @PedalPCB, @music6000, @swyse, @benny_profane and of course @PJS …

Oh well... Removed R108, no impact on VREF still reads 3.36V Remove C105, same thing.. .so OpAmp it is... I think I may have damage C105 a bit in the process, spread the legs to much and crack a bit of the drop... is this a concern ? And finally a JRC4558 would work right ? Every thing I read...

Oh I didn't get it the right way... so the test is: Remove R108 and test Vref, if I don't get 4.5V then reconnect R108 and disconnect C105 to test VREF. For the record, I'm measuring VREF at the junction of R132 and R133, I assume this is correct.

C105 and C106 are the last 2 polarized cap I didn't replaced. I don't have tantalum of .22uf value, so I was asking if I could replace them with non-polarized... can I ? So I'll disconnect R108 and C105 and measure VREF. If that doesn't get me to 4.5V, am I right to assum C105 is my next...

Yep, just checked and it is a A75558P, but that should be a direct replacement for a JRC4558 right ? Repairs may actually make it sound better :D Mojo tone !

Yeah, figure that... VREF should read 4.5V off the power divider, but I was getting a reading of 3.36 at R132 and R133... so something is sucking up power on the VREF rail.. Seem with the latest test @PedalPCB suggested that the JRC4558 is busted... just waiting confirmation that the fact that...

OK progres... with R105 removed, VREF remained at 3.36, however with R109 removed, VREF went up to 4.5V ... I tested R109 and it read a near perfect 10K (9.96)... Now what that means ? OPamp busted ? Edit: Now that's going to be a b1tch to replace... I do have JRC4558 tho.. any good trick to...

Got continuity on all points. Pin 3: 17.8 K Pin 5: 36.08 K pin3: 3.36v pin5: 0.993v Will now work on measuring VREF with R105 and R109 removed... more to come.