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I would say no, the 1590BBMis 117.2mm x 90mm x 39mm Both board are for a 125B which is 122mm x 66mm x 39.5mm You should get a 1590XX, which is 145mm x 121mm x 39.5mm. here’s a look at two 125B board in a 1590XX Looks like the teh captain bit and CDXL are the width of the PCB on the right...

Sorry I missed that... my bad...

On the board the line is on the right: On your picture looks like the line is on the left:

I just checked back on the original picture. It looks like the protection diode is reversed !

Buttplug tube ?

Wow, almost looks like a 3PDT board would not have fit !! Nice build !

I believe they should, the one I listed are only the one I can be sure. I’m also learning in this process.

So IC1 audio on pin 1,3,5 and 7. And on IC2 pin 1,2,6 and 7….

2 and 6 are the inverted input. I think you should hear the signal, but I can’t confirm. But the above mention you should for sure. If you don’t, then that’s where we need to dig in.

From the schematic, you should be getting sound on IC1 and IC2 pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 for sure.

Absolutely, your last tutorial was a good starting point for me. I've had breadboard in my tool box for a while but couldn't mustard the will to start using them...

Did you check your ceramic cap values ? C8 and C14 ?

Did you double check you ceramic cap values ? C8 and C14 ? They are both in the Opamp circuit, I had a similar problem with a Boost pedal where I put a 39u instead of a 390p, the pedal was not amplifying the sound and the tone had no impact either....

Nice build…. Looking at the schematic, the Mach 1 and the southern belle use a 220n in the tone stack (Mach-C8 and Belle-C6). Maybe replacing those with a 470n would help trim the highs ?

Depends what you do while you build... or what you build while you're.... never mind !

I've been trying to help @Jeff C on his Cobalt drive issue... but the schematic includes stuff I have never seen and don't understand. There seems to be 2 JFET facing each other, clipping diodes going to ground ???? I think we need help, any volunteers the thread is here...

I think you soldered it right, I just can't figure out how this works... TBH, I told you I was as noob as you are, but as troubleshooting is always the best learning experience, I gave you all I got to help... we need support :D

I have to admit that this schematic puzzling me... I had understood the first part to be the yellow audio path, but the blue part is what throws me way off... However, it looks like Q3 is inverted... that confuses me even more !

OK then check for audio on R6 and Q3.

On that note, be sure you pay attention on your testing process. 1- Always check your inpad before checking any other points, this will confirm your switch is engage and sending a signal to the board. 2- Every time you check a point, remember that if you check on the back side everything is...