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See this pic below. I may have this backwards, but the parts circled with the same colour should be connected. If you have audio on one side of the stages switch but not the other, I assume the problem is here. Use a multimeter to touch both purple parts to check connectivity and the same...

Your audio probing sounds pretty positive. I have highlighted what I understand the audio path to be. You should have audio when you touch all of these spots (although it may depend oh switch position). I have circled the stages switch ads you said one of these positions produces no sound. I...

If you are doing it without autoroute, try hiding the GND net. That will make it easier to focus on what you really need to connect, if you are doing a ground pour at the end.

My only comment is that some of the wires and vias are very close together. Maybe adjust the settings in the design rule to make the clearance a bit more. Perhaps 0.15 to 0.25mm. Is your copper pour connected to any nets? It doesn't seem to be. Or if it is connected to ground, you have wires...

Hey everyone Here is a video of the GCI Brutalist. While the pedal sounds great all round, I especially like the filters. Does anybody have any insight about how I might do these filters? Not especially on a GCI build, I'd lie to be able to do this on othet rbuilds

Thanks for sharing!

When you find out what it is please let me know. That sounds cool.

What schematic did you use for this one? The one I found i super blurry and it's hard to see what the values are and what is connected.

C38 looks like it is in backwards. Edit: no it is backwards in mine. But amazingly mine still works.

Hot tip, these are great for removing parts. Also if you have a piece of metal you can gently lever one end of a resistor, and then apply heat to one of the pads. Once the pad heats up, the pressure of your lever should lift the resistor without damaging the pad. Then you can grab plies and...

You can just solder a piece of wire from the switch to where it should be connected. Check with a multimeter and/or audio probe to see if they are connected. If not some wire should do the trick.

R 24 is pretty close to pin 7 of IC3. It's possible you broke a treace when removing R24.

I use a spare audio jack connected to a lead going to the amp. The jack sleeve should be grounded (i use an alligator clip to connect it to ground on the PCB). The tip is connected to a 100nf capacitor (soldered or alligator clipped) which can be connected to another wire (or you can use the...

Good to hear it’s working. It sounds like maybe your switch isn’t working properly. One end of the switch is connected to Pin1 of ic3 (top) and the other is connected to pin7 of ic2(middle). If you have an audio probe I would also check that you have audio on these points. Maybe check with a...

IC3 is the top one. Pin 7 should go up and down in voltage depending on where the rate pot is set.

Check what resistor you have in r24. It is supposed to be 3m9 (orange white black yellow brown). It looks like 3k9 to me (orange white black brown brown).

Sorry what transistors are you using? This should work with 4 x 2n5457. Mine does. When you say consistent voltage of 4.2v do you mean on pin 7 of ic3? If so that tells me that your lfo isn’t working so it won’t really phase Can you write the voltage of each pin of ic3 here?

The trimpot has a very small spot around the muddle where the effect works. Have you got a multimeter? If so what is the voltage on pin 7 of ic3? Does it go up and down?

are you sure those transistors have the right Pinout? The Russian ones I have used have a different Pinout to what is on that board. What’s the model number?

Is there such a thing as a transistor panning mixer? As in something that works the same as the op amp mixer in .2 of this list, but using a transistor instead. Would it be as simple as replacing Ic1.2 with some simple transistor gain circuit like a LPB-1?