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C8 AND C7 ARE BACKWARDS

short bat

Yes... there was a tiny sliver of solder there.. when i reflowed yesterday i picked it out with a hobby knife

At Some point later when I get annoyed by all the people in my house I'll retreat to the dungeon and signal trace the non working one ... :ROFLMAO: .. i get too many people in my house anxiety..

Removed the three "Effect/On LEDS" on both builds.... One of the builds functions correctly with the leds removed... Looks like the switches he had installed was indeed shorting out the FV-1......ONE will turn on and work correctly with the switch in its upright position and the knob related...

yes i realize he has the leds soldered on the incorrect side of the pcb... but he has the polarity correct..... I'll pull them and clean the pads... just trying to get both the pcbs working for him... I'm not boxing them.. Just trouble shooting and trying to get them functional..

question: just going over the build docs... The DPDT switches he has are ON/ON/ON for all three on each build... The build doc calls for ON/ON... Could this be shorting out something in the signal path and be the whole issue?

yeah... deep dive.. I hooked some new leads and threw both builds on the auditorium test board... both will get bypass signal from signal generator.. but nobody's home on either build when engaged.... one of them the led's will light up throwing the toggles switches but that is the only sign of...

Board #2

Board 1

went ahead and pulled the wires that were installed.. Reflowed every single joint on both board and scrubbed them down with 99% iso.. See if you guys notice anything… I see a couple suspected scratches around traces from clipping leads that might end up being a problem… Tomorrow I’m going to put...

Received his boards today... I have some time off this week and I'll start digging into them tomorrow... gonna give a quick component layout check tonight for anything obvious....

Thanks man! I’m just whining…, I’ll get in the game soon and be able to complete a bunch I have started…

I just put mine up on reverb when things are flowing I get plenty of word of mouth and repeat customers.. That has all dried up entirely.., especially since there are so many people doing builds that are more professional than mine.

It's definitely a lot different on the way they set it up... I did have a hard time finding a couple values when I key word searched, but if you list the full run of caps the values are generally in order.. odd the value didn't show up in keyword search though. Everything still seems to be...

Had several irons in the fire lately and I find myself having to choose subs and gang up resistors to meet a value lately... I've let a lot of my stock values deplete completely due to not ordering onsie twosies during this tariff and inflation crap... plus I'm extra strapped lately. Just...

I haven't built a sushibox project yet and I really want to build the bass di/ preamp for the people who play our church rig..... planning on building a preamp and possibly a compressor... definitely a chuck d bones bass klon.. Any idea if a pcb will be available for DIY?

if the user was swelchy they are mine.... Which I think I'm the only one who has them posted on thingiverse.

PJS is absolutely correct..... electrical tape will not protect... leads poke through that pretty easy and will cause you tones of troubleshooting grief.... at the least id throw some thin plastic under there.. ideally pot covers though... I have 3d printed versions listed on thingiverse if you...

I mean... if he wants to get weird and into synthy drum stuff I'd say go for a rainbow machine.. you can get lost in that guy for a while doodlin around.... Big fan of the boss slicer too when I had one for noise making.