Search results

I really like that J113 and BS170 are used here, hence no problem with finding and buying transistors. Thanks, Chuck! btw, what is power supply here, 9V or 18V?

So I can confirm that the PCB is absolutely okay. Though when I compared my clone to the original I noticed an obvious difference in the tone control curve. Then I googled and there are suggestions that C8 is 100n, not 10n. And it makes sense, 100n and 82k give 19Hz so it doesn't roll off bass...

Okay, bumping this thread up as I got my hands on the Distortr. I have the same kind of issue as jeffwhitfield, the subs switch has very mild effect on the bass response. Luckily I have an original Zvex Distortron. I'm not going to reverse engineer it or whatever, knowing it has SMD components...

Yeah, they are different, the ones that I purchased from AmplifiedParts and SmallBear differ from Tayda's in shape and size. American also look better and cost more :)

Good job! Yeah, Current Lover is definitely among the best flangers.

Michael, how does it compare to Engineer's Thumb in terms of transparency and changing an original tone? as I like the Thumb the best as a natural sounding one though didn't try Keeley.

That looks like a secret "boutique" mojo. Though it would be interesting to check the difference by ear.

The effect of such diode configuration is quite subtle:

Wow, great idea with the dual-concentric pot!

Nice looking build! What kind of Tayda enclosure is that? Metallic light gold?

If you followed the build docs then you built it with the stock values, C11 = 2n2, C12 = 22n. Swapping out C11 and C12 would give more mids and output volume.

With stock values (Mid tone pot is in the middle position): WIth modded (swapped) values:

Looks good. I modded mine as I didn't like its tone too. At the time I built a clone for myself I had an original Vertex MK2 and I can admit the original one sounded nice. I don't know either Mk2 is different from the MK1 version which I believe the schematic is reverse engineered from...or...

Over the years Small Stone schematic has been revised several times. Lectric-fx has 3 different versions. Also I have had several latest 'reissue' Small Stones and have to say they can sound a bit different when compared side by side. Some had a bit wider sweep, some were darker, different...

I've soldered Lovepedal Purple Plexi recently. I was really surprised by how actually good it sounded as a medium-high gain overdrive. Though all my attempts to make it sound good as a low-gainer were not satisfying.

Basically yes, you can do that as well. But clipping off is not necessarily needed, you can connect leg 2 to leg 1 and wire up legs 1 and 3 then. Or you can use this one: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/trimmit/

I got mine from the Rocktek flanger which I still have. It sounded weak, on the other hand the Pearl one sounded very intense. So I thought what if I swap delay chips in those. And it was a 'win-win' situation. As I recall I had to change a mixing stage a bit in the Rocktek to balance out dry...

3102, the same that is used with 3207. I changed mn3207 for mn3204 in my pedal keeping clock IC intact.

If someone has mn3204 give it a try here, it makes this flanger sound a bit less intense and metallic, more balanced and musical.

Another option is to deal with R5 or R6. The output stage IC4.2 has the gain that is defined as R6/R5=10k/10k=1. So you need to lower R6 or enlarge R5. Or substitute one of them with the trim pot (10K for R6 or 25K for R5) and adjust it by ear.