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https://www.dropbox.com/s/b77uxsuezone8dd/IMG_2402.mov?dl=0

Interesting. I didn’t experience that at all. Hang on and I’ll post a demo.

I’d like to insert a parallel effect into the “dry” path of the Sproing (https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Sproing-PedalPCB.pdf) Right now I’m thinking of using the R2 pads as Send/Receive to a daughter board. On the daughter board I’ll have R2 and I guess some coupling caps? How do I determine...

Do you still get the drop in highs if the pedals are unplugged from power?

Well crap. I thought I was all sorted with low gain drives, but now I’m going to have to try out the Chop Shop

+1 for the Mach 1 or another Timmy variant.

Is there any chance you’ve swapped tip and sleeve on one of your jacks? How’s the grounding? It might help to have some gut shots of the pedals from your video.

Also remember if you’re running a 125b with top jacks and a 3pdt (instead of a relay near the jacks) you’re adding around ten inches of wire per pedal even when bypassed. It adds up.

Ok thanks all! It sounds like the answer to my original question is “trace the signal path with an audio probe.” For the particular Arachnid in the example above, I started debugging tonight. This one was indeed a case of incorrect component value. I had installed a B100k as the Mix pot instead...

I believe this is somewhat expected. Density controls the clock speed of the FV-1. Running the FV-1 at a slower speed than designed produces some interesting effects, but will reduce fidelity.

I always get a ton of noise (sounds like 60hz hum… or maybe DC offset?) when using my audio probe, which is why I didn’t consider that as an option. But this makes me think that maybe my audio probe is broken? I’ve been using this one. Can’t remember where I got it.

Super clean!

Here’s an example with an Arachnid build. I have a similar issue with an Organ Donor. Caveat: I have not yet started debugging, and it’s entirely possible that there’s wrong value components. Or that I fried the FV-1 when soldering it. I guess I’m looking for a “teach me to fish” 🙂...

I’ll try to get a recording of the noise. For power I’m either using a Strymon Zuma or Voodoo Labs Pedal Power II. No Daisy chaining. I’ll try to get a recording of the noise, but I think I was hoping for more process guidance than advice for a particular case. I guess it depends on what kind of...

Apart from visually inspecting joints and verifying components are correct, what is the recommended way to track down noisy components in a build? A few of my FV-1 builds are significantly noisier than others, and there has to be a better way to debug this than to just start replacing components...

Didn’t Eric Johnson take the screws out of his Fuzz Face to “make it sound better”? I seem to remember him holding it together with a rubber band.

I never got solder suckers to work well either. I had occasional success with braid but finally broke down and bought a Hakko FR-301 after Tayda sent me a bag of mislabeled resistors and I populated them in about twenty builds. It’s amazing but expensive. I’ve since heard that the trick to...

I feel ya. For me it’s the LEDs. I hate soldering the effing LEDs. I’ve tried soldering them direct to the board (on boards that support it), running wires to them, three different types of lenses. I just can’t seem to find an approach that doesn’t make me want to pull my hair out - if I had any.

When my friends hear that I make pedals their first reaction is “what a cool side hustle!” I mean yeah. If I wanted to pay myself $5/hr.

FWIW I don’t see how anyone can make a business out of selling pedals unless the raw materials to wholesale margin is really high. Even using pick and place and reflow ovens, it seems like quite a bit of overhead to produce a pedal. Include quality control, customer support, repairs, marketing...