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thank you sir !

so one changes from symmetrical to asymmetrical ... and the other adds more diodes to that choice ? if so ... what effect does that have ? I know where the schematic is ..... hence my question ..... was looking for someone to explain to me what I'm seeing .

so .... what exactly is " Clip 1 : doing ? and what does " Clip 2 " do ?

C9 and C11 don't look like tantalums .... they look like blue box film caps

I didn't use regular film caps in spots asking for electrolytics .... is that the trick ?

Testing update : Here are 2 pics from putting the circuits on my scope at the same time.... all controls cranked to full..... in bypass / off ..... with the same sine wave running into them ... scope is attached at the output jack . The yellow signal / yellow fonts are the perfectly working...

So I had a Kliche " Boost " board I have been waiting to build ........ so I built it yesterday ... in the same manner I built these last two variations of the Kliche ... it does the exact same thing the Kliche Mini does ..... and it also has positive DC running over the signal ..... when I...

Ok ...... so update on this issue .... Over the last few days I built a new Kliche OD and a Kliche Mini ..... I inspected the solder joints under high light magnification after each type of component was soldered in ... All the components are from the same batch of parts ..... all identical...

I had the Archer for like 5 minutes ....... it was used from GC ..... I think it was straight up junk ... I've done a crap ton of research on pumps , Klons and the like .... I'm not the first one having the same issue .... people have had the same problem on actual Klons ...

what ever is going on ... it definitely impacts the resistance readings of R28 and R29 ...

I've got 50 of them ............... they are super cheap feeling .... they are new to them I think .... it's a light pressure switch ... all black ... figured I'd try them out ... as much as people like to complain about Tayda ... this will be a first problem of any parts from them .... if it's...

the board could definitely use a cleaning I agree ...... is flux conductive ?? I went over the board with a magnifying scope we have here at work ... all joints looked solid .... I'm building a brand new Kliche OD and a mini today ...... using all the same parts .... I will use the same...

If a new switch doesnt fix the problem ..... I whole heartedly agree .... it's finding it thats killing me ... lol

I checked for this also ...... visually and with a MM

I've tried both ways ...... without the break out board and with .....

First thing I did when I noticed the problem ... was try a Maxx1044 ( made the problem a tad worse ) then I ordered both versions of the 7660's that Mouser had ... tried them .... problem still there ... what I did find odd though while trying different pumps was .... I read you could use a...

I did some research ... just now about a guy losing his Pump in a original Klon ..... it blew both the Charge pump and IC2 ... last night when I replaced the Tc1044SCPA in the almost working Kliche mini ... I never checked IC2 .... wonder if the new footswitch fixed the problem and I needed to...

That's some positive info .... I've built probably over 40 Pedal PCB builds and never had a problem I couldn't figure out in a few hours ... So .... last night ... after tracing through most of a un populated board .... I decided to measure the resistance on R28 and R29 ( individually ) on 30...

Yes I do ..... I will check it over . Thanks for the help

I've got 40 boards .... fully populated and soldered up .... when building 40 of the same pedal ... you have to batch some tasks ..... I fully built 5 of them ( now 6 ) they all have the bypass issue ... plus I took one that wasn't working ..... and removed every part ... piece by piece and...