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The tone pot in the Eight Ball is just a low pass filter. I’d put the tone tweak right there with the input being pin 3 and output pin 2 of the tone knob

Are there no sides of the enclosure?

I've had more time playing through this circuit. Unless I'm told otherwise, 99% of the time I will play a new circuit through a crisp, clean channel on my amp. This circuit shines, IMO, through a slightly dirty amp. Sometimes you need to let your amp do the talking as well. Lesson learned.

For those of you who are fuzz junkies, the PPCB Percolation Station (Harmonic Percolator) is one of the more unique fuzzes out there using a 2 transistors (Q1 is germanium and Q2 is silicon) that feed into each other and make something very different sonically. Here is a breadboard tutorial for...

Our own @Stickman393 was super cool to throw some GE transistors my way for a few "classic" circuits. So here I decided to whip up a PPCB Percolation Station (Harmonic Percolator). Q1 had a hfe of 53 and Q2 had hfe of 174. What intrigues me about this circuit is that both transistors work...

Could just be a cold joint or stray solder on the board. Would be a good idea to clean up the stripboard tracks with your iron and inspect the pot connections to be sure. Can you share voltages?

-Certain designers like to keep the polarity of the cap in question, regardless of the cap type. Chuck's schematics (check out his boneyard posts) will consider polarity for all capacitors he uses. Polarity should normally be considered when you're using an electrolytic cap. Unless told...

The Mach 1 is pretty great by itself, but to each his own. Nice, tight build!

A lot of good breadboard advice on here. Most important one is to build a circuit and test it in stages, which you have. Your first stage is nothing more than a booster and should be louder than your input signal especially with the knob cranked. A few observations based on the pics in post...

I do not have the original pedal,so I cannot vouch for the authenticity of the schematic Robert put up. You may be right.

Yep. I'm probably going to keep this on my board for a few more days then take it down. I really just wanted to see what all the fuss was about with this circuit. Schematic-wise it's interesting, but sonically not my cup of tea.

C4 was definitely the culprit. I also don't need the 100uf cap in the power rails. OP07 sounded best to me, followed by TL061, then TL072. The differences are subtle. The DRIVE control doesn't do much until about 8 o'clock regardless of the opamp used.

So, that would probably explain my findings in only swapping out opamps in keeping the circuit stock. I had a OP07, TL061, and TL071. OP07 caused a lot of glitchy, octave-y oscillation once the DRIVE control was cranked above 10 o'clock. Reminded me of a MXR Blue Box with more noise. Fun, but...

No, not yet. It's still on my board so I'll give it a go. I thought C4 would attenuate some of the super high frequencies, based solely on the schematic.

It's been quite a while since I've breadboarded something. Now that most of us are approaching the holiday season and colder months, life is slowly quieting down (yardwork, house projects, etc.) and I'm forcing myself to take time here and there to work on some circuits. Here is the PPCB Awful...

Those electros look drunk

Yes, they all link together. Some designers throw their signals to ground and others to Vref (or V Bias in this case). There is a voltage divider cutting the voltage in half along with a filtering cap before going into opamp buffer configuration.

Your first step is visual inspection. Do any resistors/caps look fried? Electros don't last forever. Heck, maybe the button to engage the effect is fried. Are there secure connections going to/from the effect? Next step IMO would be to confirm all IC are getting proper power just in the chorus...

Wait. At least an hour. Also, it should be warm out.

I've also used the Rustoleum gold. The key for me was to do very light, quick coats. Time consuming, but worth it!